Despite being a bit dirty, this climb is highly enjoyable.

Pitch 1 - 5.8 PG-13 100 feet.

Starting on the north side of the tower, grovel up an obvious wide chimney. The chimney turns right and narrows into a squeeze chimney. Continue upwards as the squeeze chimney becomes a stem between two towers.

Just when the route doesn't seem obvious, do a dubious traverse along the west face of the tower and belay at a small ledge with a wide crack.

Pitch 2 - 5.8 20 feet.

Climb up the wide crack, only a few moves, to the summit hoodoo. An exciting mantel leads to the summit.  The mantel must be down-climbed.

Descent

Rappel 115 feet, webbing slung around a hoodoo for an anchor, down the west side of the tower.  Be observant of the rope pull as there is a large crack system which would love to eat a rope.

Description

Protection

Routes in Merrymen Tower