Climb a nice strip of rock with a black water streak in the middle of the pitch. This shares an anchor with

Brown Bottle Flu

.

Taming The Monkey Mind

Brown Bottle Flu

Shock the Monkey

Compactor

Trash Man

Monkey Madness

Toxic Substance

Save the Monkey

Dance Monkey

Dance Monkey Extension

It's Your Call

Dump Monkey

Bear in a Dumpster

This is a route of two contrasting halves. The first half is thin, thought-provoking slab climbing; the second half is slightly overhanging climbing on good holds.

This is a crack route that has been bolted. It protects well with gear -- skip the bolts.

This overhanging dihedral with a crack running through it is much easier than it looks.

This has good, juggy climbing on light colored rock. It climbs more technical than it looks!

A short route that ends at a ledge underneath the large, overhanging dihedral.

The coldshuts for this route are way off to the right, so I would not recommend top-roping this route.

The only real purpose of this route is to get to the nice route above it.

Climb

Dump Monkey’s

first 2 bolts, head right to clip 3 bolts, then continue right, and finish on

Bear in A Dumpster

. This is a super fun endurance pitch!

Slightly steep jug pulling through the guano stained blocks leads to a no-hands rest. If you are feeling pumped, get it all back because the second part of this route is crimping on smaller holds. Unfortunately, the crux of this route is clipping the anchors. It would have made more sense to place the anchors down a couple of feet where they could have been clipped from the jug. Instead, find a sidepull that you like better than the others and place your right foot on the higher of the two choices.

This link provides a more logical and smooth way to climb the classic

Shock the Monkey

corner without climbing

Trash Man

(out left) and trying to manage the rope from there or set up an intermediate belay on the ledge. There is an old 1/4" bolt and other evidence that Doug Ranck and others explored this possibility but evidently didn't finish it.

Climb the first three bolts of

Toxic Substance

. At the fourth bolt, reach left to a new bolt connecting the blank face between

Toxic Substance

and the ledge system below

Shock the Monkey's

classic corner. You may want to clip the fourth bolt while making this reach and then back clean the fourth bolt. Slings or long draws may also be helpful in this section.

Make this long move left and on to the first of two ledge systems below

Shock the Monkey's

corner. A new bolt up and right of the old two bolt anchor below the corner helps the rope run more freely. Once in the corner of

Shock the Monkey

, climb the steep, right-angling corner.

Climb first 3 bolts of

Brown Bottle Flu

, then head up and left on gently overhanging, white rock to an anchor above a huge jug rail. It is nice to stickclip the first bolt.

Climb "

Dance Monkey

," 5.12, then continue up and right onto a steep arete. There are fun boulder problems and nice positioning on this pitch.

A thin, bouldery start leads to bigger holds.

This would be a classic route if it weren't for having to dodge a little guano and a couple sections of flaking rock.

Regardless, the movement is spectacular.

If you aren't pumped by the time you get to the first set of anchors, there is a 3 bolt extension that goes through an overhanging dihedral (11c).

A slab crux getting to the third bolt will keep you on your toes, but the climbing is anything but over as the route stays a bit continuous. The upper headwall consists of big, steep, fun moves on good holds.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dump Wall