Really fun overhanging start, very tricky traverse to gain the ledge, and a cruiser to the top

Unknown 2nd Tier Far R

Dumpster Diver

Unknown 2nd Tier Farthest R

Unknown 2nd Tier R

Unknown 5.7

Unknown 2nd Tier L

Unknown 2nd Tier Center

White Eye

Feels Like Africa

Earth Angel

Unknown

Shit Show Heaven

Unknown 5.6

Three bolts traverse the lower huecos, then transitions to face climbing. A TR fall could be dangerous, with a swing into the big boulder at the base. (We did not try this one, so I have no idea if it is 11, 12, or 13, but I don't want to confuse anyone with the 5 climbs up here.)

This is a fun route up a water streak on the south side of Moon Rock. Lots of features, pockets and a generally low angle keep this on the easier side for the majority of the route.

P1 - Pull a bulge protected by a bolt and head upwards Big thanks to James Garrett for fixing the damaged hangars!.

P2 - Motor up the streak and veer right when it splits. Clip two more bolts at the top before topping out. Belay off the bolts at the top.

Very thin, slightly dihedral, through a slight black streak...

(We did not try this one, so I have no idea if it is 11, 12, or 13, but I don't want to confuse anyone with the 5 climbs up here.)

Cruise straight up the edges. Watch out for loose rock. No idea who the FA is or name of route. Please comment if you have more info.

Neat hueco start, to some delicate face, to some very thin face.

Hard hueco start, very hard getting to the face, eventually even harder getting through some sloper huecos.

P1: Paddle up the low angle slab passing 3 bolts at various cruxes. The climbing is extremely easy but very loose in spots and with minimal protection. A two bolt anchor with tat awaits.

P2: Walk up to the rib with bolts then edge and smear your way up past the 5.8 crux. The climbing eases off to a two bolt anchor.

P3: Wander right up a runnel before cutting back left onto the slab. Pass a lone bolt before running into the two bolt anchor. No chains there as of 11/15 so bring some tat and rings or a couple leaver biners.

The crux is up high on this short crimpy climb on water worn black streaked granite.

Pitch#1: Just to the right of Unknown aka White Spot, look for a line of Wave Glue In bolts. Two steep steps with a lower angle easier section in the middle to a two bolt belay. 5.10, 6 bolts.

Rappel the Route.

This slab route has an old school taste with good protection. Drilled from the ground up. Probably the best longer moderate route out here.

P1- Pad up to the first bolt and keep padding upwards passing bolts, one which you wont forget. The crumbly shoulder to the belay is memorable.

P2- Climb straight  up passing two clips to a big shelf. Stop here and belay at two bolts or link into P3.

P3- Jog left and around the corner to Atomic Sheep and belay. Or ramble up the low angle terrrain passing a bolt or tow to the top. This has the best belay ledge on the whole dome IMO.

This route starts roughly 30 feet to the right of the obvious water mark that is Dumpster Diver.  Start on an easy, runout, bolted line that slightly travels left from the base.  Pull through crumbly rock until you see a two bolt anchor on the left roughly three bolts up.  This is the belay ledge for the second pitch.  The second pitch travels up the water mark, featuring chossy climbing up easy terrain.  The last bolt is before an INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS chimney section which runs out to the anchors.  Use extreme caution on this section - it really needs to be cleaned up and the belayers will be avoiding flying rocks otherwise.  The second pitch is roughly 130', so rappelling off with a 70M rope is ill-advised.  Try rap'ing with the Dumpster Diver anchors or possibly avoid this adventure climb altogether until it gets safer.  PG13 for runout and falling rocks from rope drag and climbers.

As a side note, you can continue up bolts from the the belay ledge up an unknown route.  I went three bolts past the belay ledge and called it quits after being unable to find the next bolt on crumbly rock without beta.  Kudos to the intrepid climber who can send this unknown, yet easy route.

Crux is at the beginning of the third, final, and best pitch. Bolt finding skills will be tested! Treat yo-self to this adventure climb. Excellent views from the top. Rap off at your own leisure, or down climb a rib on east, southeast side.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Three Dame Crack Area