Classic Herbst climbing on nice rock. P1. 35 meters.  Scramble and jam up cracks and ledges, then across a slab to a 4" crack.   Real crack moves (arm bar, fists, stacks, dealer's choice) lead up to easier face and crack, and a small ledge.  Belay off gear (several mediocre small pieces or use a #3 or #4 if you saved one). P2. 35 meters.  Straight up the crack, many sizes from #1-#4 camalot.  At the top of the crack there is a bail anchor around a block.  We elected to skip this, not believing a single 70m rope would reach the slabby ledge.  Instead we clipped the anchor and traversed left and up across the face (nuts) to the base of a chimney.  Belay off any sized cams.  Easier than the previous pitch, but maybe more thoughtful.

 P3. 15 meters. (To reach the end of the Last Hurrah) Climb the chimney, which is fun and easy.  At the top move left and belay on the ledge.  2 bolts at your feet or build your own.

 Rap straight down The Last Hurrah with a single rope.

 We climbed this route as a warmup to the sport routes on the ledge.  I would recommend the 2nd pitch of Last Hurrah as well, for some stellar 5.8 hand crack.

Mito

Spirit Air

Gadgers Edge

Fingers in the Honeypot

Man of the People

Beautiful Bastard

The Schwa

Schwalli

The Jagged Edge

Schwallow

The Long Riders

The Long Riders is a great pitch of difficult trad climbing with engaging movement and gear. Begin in the righthand of two left-facing corners that are located on the left end of the Mud Spring Wing immediately left of a massive, low roof. 

  Trundle up a hand crack to a loose ledge and begin climbing. In two spots (near a white rock scar) one can depart the corner itself by climbing the face to the left - however the natural line and protection opportunities will keep you returning to the corner. A narrow ledge at 2/3 height affords a rest before a difficult stemming crux above very small gear (000 C3's and brass) to a finger lock. Above this a short stretch of "athletic" liebacks and stems leads to a bolted anchor. 

  Note that there used to be an old (bail?) anchor on the sloping ledge immediately below the crux but it has been removed. Also, I speculated (incorrectly - see comment below) that this route was originally protected with a piton or two. Without them the climbing is spicy and committing but I am reluctant to say the pitch is objectively dangerous if you're crafty with small gear.

This is the leftmost bolted pitch beginning from the Schwalli platform. It follows a spectacular sharp arete passing a difficult and wild crux at mid-height. A few loose (and one particularly crucial hold - a pillar on the arete at 2/3 height) demand careful cranking!

Gadgers Edge is a phenomenal route up the arete just left of The Long Riders' corner. Ramble up the deep, right facing corner (a #3 and/or #4 Camalot with long sling might be wise your first time) before stepping out of the corner to the left and up onto a pillar from which you can clip the first of six bolts. Several technical sequences lead to a good stance by the fourth bolt followed by a wild boulder problem crux at the fifth bolt (cold temps were helpful for me on this one, but regardless the falls are clean). Make the final clip and do one more move before gaining jugs and the anchor of The Long Riders.

Fingers in the Honeypot is a line that, in my opinion, is undeserving of the recommendation found in Red Rocks - A Climber's Guide II. The line is squeezed between two much better climbs, has some inexplicably unprotected stretches of climbing, is much harder than it's given rating, and has much hollow rock on the upper two thirds of the route. 

  Begin by climbing past 5 tightly-spaced bolts. Thin. Not much to work with here. Above this, the bolts end in favor of sporadic and sketchy RP placements. More insecure, thin climbing leads to easier climbing that wanders back and forth up crunchy features before the route finally joins the upper few bolts of Man of the People.

This fun, long pitch of thin face climbing is located immediately left of the Schwalli corner. Mostly positive incuts separated by good rests is the name of the game; the crux being at about 1/3 height at a bolt that is slightly left of the line. There are some slightly crumbly holds here and there but they will undoubtedly continue to consolidate with ascents.

The Schwa is one of the few members of Red Rock Canyon's exclusive splitter crack club.  This club includes the likes of The Fox, Atman, Yin Yang, Red Zinger, and Chrysler Crack amongst a few others. 

  The Schwa itself feels a lot like The Fox.  The second pitch of the route starts with hands and just gets bigger as you go. 

  The best way to climb this route is to break it into two pitches.  There are a few ways to approach the main crack.  The left side is somewhat difficult, whereas the right side is somewhat brushy.  The best way up is up to you. 

  The second pitch is the main event.  Climb up the central crack as it goes from tight jams to hand-stacks.  There is a diving board ledge in the middle of the second pitch where you can shake-out and relax before committing to the forty-foot off-width you'll climb to obtain the top. 

  Two sixty-meter ropes will get you to the ground.

A beautiful and interesting climb, Schwalli ascends the impressive looking corner above the ledge left of the Schwa Area. Despite looking fairly wide and intimidating, the crack is varied and abundant face holds keep you out of the crack for most of the climb.  

  A single 60m rope will suffice, but if you're planning on doing anything on the left wall (Man of the People, Spirit Air, etc), bring a 70m rope and plenty of draws.

This tricky and pumpy pitch has some tough to identify holds down low and a bit of hollow rock throughout but is great fun nonetheless. The ledge above the anchor is a pretty cool spot to take in the view.

A nice moderate in an out-of-the-way location, quite well protected. Pull a couple of short bulges at the beginning (crux, #3 Camalot is nice but not essential), enjoy the steep corner, then trend up and right to the Hangman’s House anchor.

The Mud Spring Wing is a series of south- and east-facing walls that sit on the southeast corner of Black Velvet Peak at the entrance to Mud Spring Canyon.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mud Spring Wing