SDS at low jugs and hand traverse up and right along a crack then finish up a short face/arete.

* This problem isn't listed in the Joshua Tree Bouldering Guide but is an obvious line with some good moves that's worth a go when in the area.

One-Eyed Jack

Grainline

Palm-o-Granite

Joker

Deuce

Pull onto the undercut, flared crack and make balancy moves as you work your feet over the grainy bulge. Continue up the grainy crack as the angle eases and the climbing becomes trivial.

The climbing on this problem isn't all that bad, but the grainy rock will trash your tips and expect to lose some skin if not a kneecap should your foot pop clearing the bulge. Better problems exist nearby - best to keep walking past this one.

Located on the north face of the Black Lichen Boulder, about 10' left of

Joker

(V1).

Pull easily onto the slab using some incut edges, work your feet up and then make the commiting crux moves to highstep out right onto a sloping shelf (5.9); once atop the shelf an easy bit of climbing up the slab leads to the top. Descend by downclimbing the juggy crack just to the left.

Bad fall potential at the crux onto a sloping shelf of rock at the base - for the grade not a problem to be taken lightly.

This challenging and balancy problem climbs the rounded arete/corner right of

Joker

(V1) via creative body positioning as you work the rounded, sloping holds until near the top where you can rock over and finish onto the slab.

Due to the sloping nature of the holds this problem is best done when the temps are cool and your hands are in shape for pulling on the rough rock - caveat emptor!

Still cleaning up a little so don't be surprised if a little loose grit is present.

Climbs the right side of the Black Lichen Boulder; the problem

Ace

lies about 10' to the left.

The crux comes early as you press out some thin edges and you bring your feet up onto a high shelf. Once on the slab work your way up the high-angle slab via sloping edges and delicate footwork to a commiting high-step just below the top. Downclimb via a juggy crack to the left which splits the boulder into two.

Sit start at an obvious low rail and feet low under a bulge. Work the incut edges up and left to the featured arete making some balancy arete moves before clearing the bulge with your feet. Once atop the starting rail it's a romp to the top. Downclimb the juggy crack just left to descend.

This problem isn't listed in the Joshua Tree Bouldering Guide but is an obvious line with some good moves that's worth a go when in the area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Black Lichen Boulder