Stem your way up the wide slopey crack feature to get off the ground.  Then tackle the giant 50 foot flake feature.  The flake is really cool and bolted tightly to avoid whimpering

Stick It Into Coolsville

Sleep Reaction

Super 8

Mellow Slide Into Coolsville

Little Smokey Goes Downtown

Little Smokey Goes Downtown and Gets Flakey

Robot Steamroller

Ascot Aura

Vulcan Jessery

Red Neck Superhero

This route has demanding moves on a variety of small holds right from the start.  Slopers, crimps and pockets and some serious tension are required to reach the 3rd clip.  More tough moves allow a rest at the 4th and/or 5th clip.  One teaser crux guards the anchor.  Don't blow it up there!  Trying to stem at the beginning is not part of this climb, so sack up and do it!

Step off the small boulder onto the slab to reach the crack system.  Follow this up until you can grab the edge of the giant flake.  Climb up into a nook below the steeper section for a nice no hands rest.  Edges lead to good pockets as you work up the bulge.  One pocket may stymy you, it faces the wrong way and downward.  Solve that and a big reach up high guards the redpoint.

Rightmost of the Coolsville routes.  Starts up slabby pillar to get to the top of Little Smokey.  Work left (back cleaning or skipping bolts helps with drag) onto big flake

Climb the really good purplish rock on holds you wish were a little better.  Guidebook says 5.11a/b, consensus will probably land it a little higher.  Tough to read the sequence but still pretty hard even if you get it just right.

Climb Little Smokey and continue up flake to higher anchors.

Start in the crack and ramble up the vert and slabby first half.  When the angle steepens the fun begins.  Tough intro to hero pockets with a sequence that if you get right makes it go well, if not you're gonna get pumped quick.  Save some oomph for the end.

A long rambling beginning winding up up and around this tower-like feature deposits you on a ledge.  Continue up smaller holds on vert terrain with difficult to read sequences.

Climb up the lower angle beginning to find fun and interesting moves all the way up this vertical crawl.  Several small holds make up the crux of this route.

Begins on what used to be a black vert wall.  The fire in spring of 2012 burned so close to the rock that much of the black layer exploded off.  Fortunately the start of this route was unaffected.  Step up to reach the pocket and scamper onto the shelf.  Begin again working up a fun section to the lower angle to rest.  When the angle steepens again a hard crux awaits.  The bulge has good pockets for a few clips and then another crux guards the anchors.  Hardest of the three routes but maybe easy for 5.12c.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Coolsville