This all-gear route climbs the steep North side of Eyetooth. For the approach pitch, beginning from the North, climb up a short hand crack located in between Tusk and Eyetooth. Then follow ledges up left into a gully/chimney filled with precarious boulders. Belay at a decent perch below the route. For the real climbing; take easy climbing up wide cracks and chimney to the right of the route's runnel feature above. Sling and mantel large horn then carefully lean over to place gear and get established in the steep crack. Follow crack all the way to the top through slopey liebacking, off balance crystal pinching, hard to place gear, a small runout, and a wicked pump. Mantel over the lip and you're at the bolted anchor of the original route.

Dental Dam

Eyetooth

Walk around the front of Eyetooth to enter the Chimney on the Southeast side (separating the main mass from the large outer "flake"). Climb easily up to the top of the chimney and belay on the southwest shoulder at the crack leading up and left. Follow the obvious crack up and left on to the southwest side of the spire. There is a fixed pin in the crack up high if I remember correctly. Move up out of the crack and right onto the south face to clip a big new bolt (better than the scary old nail that used to stick out of the face). The angle eases off on the face and the climbing changes completely. The face is very small crystals which you friction and smear on and palm a few holds - really cool. Climb up to the beefy 2 bolt anchor and belay. A double rope rappel brings you to the base of the route. Classic Needles must do with good gear, fun climbing and good exposure on one of the coolest spires in the Needles.

Eyetooth is an unmistakable spire that looms at the top of the Spire Four-Five gully.  The tip of the spire is curving and produces a massive overhang on the uphill side.  The routes to the top are fairly bold, and should not be taken lightly.  Bring gear for any route, although a few bolts are in place.  Also, a two-rope rappel is recommended.  A one-rope rappel may be possible, with the addition of a downclimb in a 4th class chimney.

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Protection

Routes in Eyetooth