The first crux is getting set up at the base. Scramble and downclimb from the base of

Scarlet Sunset

to a small ledge/pod where it's possible to build an anchor. The first bolt is a few moves off the ledge. Pass 3 bolts to a slabby section, then pass 4 bolts on good crimps to the anchors. Beware of loose rocks, it is best to be top belayed.

Tequila Sunrise

Juniperi

Oh My God!

Scarlet Sunset

Oh My Quad!

My Portion and My Cup

Step up and left from the Juniper Ledge, and begin climbing upwards through broken cracks, good holds, and some loose rocks. Your belayer should be out of the way for any rockfall. Trend left towards the arête, but then traverse back right for a better finish.

This is a fun diversion if you are in the area doing

Oh My Quad!

. It is probably best to toprope it, although it can be led if you are competent at the grade and are not likely to fall. It is blocky at the bottom, and you ascend near a large crack to get to a ledge below the crux arête above. You can place a #0.5 Camalot before the crux. You move left onto the arête using small layback holds. There are footholds when you need them, and it is helpful to flag your right foot in places. Above there are hidden hand holds when you need them. This is a fun climb if you are in the area even though it is short.

Slabby lichen edges lead to a more vertical slab with good holds to the anchors. Still there are some loose rocks and loose holds along the way. Belayer be warned.

This 35' route is above Crimson Tide Wall proper. It is along the same ridge line band that forms Lookout Mountain Crag, just further west. The best way to identify the route is by approaching back from CTW and identifying the angled crack on the left/east. Scramble through vegetation to the base. Start with the undercling, and move up left into a sideways jug. From there, rock into the crack, and use a mix of face and crack to top out. Getting off the ground and moving into the crack are the two cruxes of this short route.

This is on the face adjacent to the Crimson Tide proper (see photo). Climb up juggy face holds into a technical crux just left of the arete.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Crimson Tide Wall