Climb

a winding 50’ foot 5.7 cobblestone and nubbin encrusted face

past 6 bolts to a sloping ledge. Above the ledge is an

optional mid-point lower-off anchor equipped with Mussy hooks

. This is a fun lead in itself for the grade and avoids the harder climbing above if desired.

The crux of the climb is the tricky upper section. Pull some hard to see  thin moves on small pockets and rounded edges at the base of the Arete. A BIG left reach gets you to a Thank god hold and gets one

established on the thin face right of the Arete. (Sustained vertical 25 ft.

headwall. 5.11- 4 Bolts.)

Siesta de Los Biceps

3 Blind Mice Center

Tiny Dancer

Little Dreamer

Sew it up

Calistoga Rodeo

3 Blind Mice Right

Dirty Boots

Coming Over

3 Blind Mice Left

The Pinnacle

Hobnobs (var)

Jerry Crack

Baby Driver

Hobnobs

Abracadabra

Riding with Mary

Climb the first 5 bolts of Hobnobs (extend draws to reduce drag), then head right to avoid roof crux. Finish on Hobnobs or Siesta anchors. Cool features and knobs.

Tricky bulge leads to knobs, pockets, and an exciting finish

Shares the same start of Abracadabra then leads right on sustained knobs and dishes to a seperate anchor. Classic

Start straight up, or pull the left wave feature.  Pockets lead to a crux bulge, then mellows with 5.9 moves to the anchor. Fun

Traverse up and right, or take the direct variation

This is the wildly overhanging fin of rock that climbs out of the mouth of the cave up a bouldery tufa-like fin through huecos to a corner and ledge before a couple big moves to the anchor. The rock is sharp so wear your chaps and watch the swing if top roping.

Climb unprotected to a dirty corner/crack. 5.8 stemming, knobs, and pockets lead to a ledge. Pull the 10b crux, or head left for 5.8.

Pass 3 bolts through the steeper bottom crux section on some sharp knobs, pulls and pockets. The angle eases off after reaching the 4th bolt.

Clip first 2 bolts of Siesta, using long sling on 2nd bolt, then head up and right on knobs and huecos.

70 ft of moderate pockets leads to 2 bolt anchor with lower offs

Thin face moves to a ledge, stem a dihedral, finish on pockets

Follow the obvious offwidth diagonal crack starting at the base of Calistoga Rodeo. Follow mostly 5.7 moves to the right to meet fourth bolt of Little Dreamer after pulling over the bulge.

As temping as it might be to clip the third bolt of Little Dreamer due to some marginal placements, this has potential to create some unmanageable rope drag.

Start left of cave, climb up the pilar to a steep lava pocket head wall. Below the roof, head right, then back left to keep it 10d, or go straight up using wild heel hook to pull the 11b roof

Starts below the burnt tree left of Siesta, right of Mary. Go up an easy bolted slab to a short overhanging section, pull onto a cool knobby face to finish at mussys.

Climb pillar to broken chute and ledge. Delicate face moves and optional mantle lead to another ledge. Finish on steep wild knobs with hidden crux pocket

TR Tiny Dancer 10c with directional

Adventure route with mantle, face, stemming and chimney moves

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Blind Man's Bluff