This one's for the fellas. A "diving board" cobble step-up gets you up to a couple of good pockets and the first clip. Follow a side pull or two to more great pockets past three more bolts to the anchors just below the big, curling roof. Stop at the first anchors for 5.9 fun on quality, good rock.  

  For more climbing (albeit potentially risky due to rock quality), pull the roof (5.10+) clipping one more bolt to reach the anchors shared with Crestone Puddin'. This roof has some lesser quality rock so tread lightly and use caution.

Pinch and Roll

Hawg-Dawg's Mind-Boggling Explosion of Fun and Excitement feat. David Hasselhoff

Better than a Slap in the Belly with a Wet Fish

Crestone Puddin'

Hello Nasty

Bloody Turnip

Joy-Poppin' with Bubble Gummers

Imitation Strawberry

Busted by Dewey

Pull the Mirrors Off Your Cadillac (So it Doesn't Look Like You Look Back)

Baby Disco Show

Love Mongers for the Win

Cobbles of Ill Repute

Bit by the Bit

Chronostasis

Goiter Grabber

Everybody Jae Chang Tonight

Shortest route in the area. Climb up to overhang past three bolts. Move left to juggy arête past another bolt. Then tip-toe to the right above the roof past one more bolt and the anchors.    If you're like me, you'll be wishing the good rock kept on going but, unfortunately, it's over all too soon.

Bouldery, steep moves off the ground lead to adventure climbing up the prominent prow to a steep finish. Even if you're not a 5.11 climber, it's worth it to stick clip the second bolt, pull through and enjoy the position on the easier climbing above. Spectacular position makes up for dubious rock quality in the middle section.

 

It's not a classic LRW route, but it is better than a slap in the belly with a wet fish. Starts with fun jugs to a few hard-to-find pockets. Negotiate the thin face to the black streak on the roof which is easier than it looks. The route goes slightly left from here with 5.6 climbing on the giant blocky cobbles.

....where you been?  

  Start off the ground with a slightly tricky start and pass the first two bolts. You will find yourself in easier territory as you climb right of a nasty poop ledge. Work yourself up into the steep, water-streaked corner. Bring your "grimy beats out of the dungeon" and use your stemming skills to climb past the last bolt, which is the crux.

Start with the a typical cruxy LRW start to easy climbing for the next 40 feet. Enter the steep red rock where you will find the real crux and then finish up with 20 feet of easier climbing.

Long climbing up wall just left of big corner. Keep on truckin' with crux pulling up overlap about halfway up. Take the shot!

Really fun climbing on some incredible jugs. Described by one local climber as, "Mostly 5.6 with a couple moves of 5.9. Really fun."    Look inside hueco at anchors for route name explanation.

Climb up huge cobbles by a big flake before it gets steeper. Super fun.

Crux at the steep bottom and then easier wild and exposed climbing above. Quality. The best route on the wall (in my humble opinion.)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnKUD_OztRE

Sustained and fun, straight forward climbing bottom to top. Tricky moves to the first bolt clipping hold. Some may consider stick-clipping the first bolt but the landing is flat and grassy.

The route was bolted on June 26, 2015, the same day as the love mongers landmark win in SCOTUS. 

  Start on good pockets to a fun crux that will require your balancing skills as you pass the first bolt. Climb to the right on great 5.8 pockets through the next 4 bolts. Climb pass the next 2 bolts in easier terrain to the anchors. Celebrate equality.

Easier climbing to the steep headwall at mid-height. Stay on steep wall for 5.10+ (recommended) or escape right for 5.8 loose (not recommended). Probably the loosest route on the wall still so use caution, avoid, or help clean it up a bit more.

The first route established on the wall (May 2013.) No hard moves, just keeps going and going making for a sustained pump. Bolt line makes a hard jog to the right after the third bolt. Long draws on third and fourth bolts will keep drag to a minimum. Longest route on the wall.

Lesson learned: I was wearing shorts while drilling the bolt holes and the hot drill bit melted a bit of skin on my leg.

Pull roof at a big cobble down low, steep finish.

Steep crux crack at 2/3rds up ending at huge goiter cobble at the top of the crack. Easier climbing below and above. Grab them goiters!

Steep start to entertaining but easier climbing above.

The main wall is a 100' wall that's mostly just less than vertical with the occasional steep section. The wall begins right next to the El Rito River. At roughly 90' tall, most all routes on the main wall require a single 60m rope. Many routes have an inconspicuous metal dog tag at the base of the route to help in route identification.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall