Saracen climbs the left edge of the nicest looking wall in the Enclaves  proper. Immaculate varnish and relentless thin climbing with several cruxes characterize this short but worthy masterpiece. North facing, but even so you may wish to pick one of those fingers-numbing-out-on-the-warmup days to tackle this climb. 

  Begin at the left edge of the wall. Clip a bolt, boulder up and step right to a finger-sized cam or stopper placement. From here work slightly left and up using sidepull slopers and then follow crimps back right across the wall (4x bolts). Move straight up past a horizontal (small cam) and finish with a satisfying mantle top out.  

  Possibly harder for the short? 

  Scramble down climber's right (quicker but a 5.2 move) or left.

Saracen

Foreign Import

Thin Deck

Joker's Wild

Albatross

The Black Queen

Another classic Enclaves testpiece.

 Begin by clipping a bolt and doing a difficult move to get established on the face. More difficult moves (crux) lead left past two more bolts to the arete and a decent shake. Shift gears to trad-mode and climb with commitment past two horizontals and a tough finish.

 Probably more like PG13 if you get the gear in just right, but it is tricky and pumpy!

Foreign Import takes a spectacular, very steep line up an intimidating prow of rock. Easier, sporty vertical climbing leads to a steep crux with great position and pumpy moves. 

  The only detractor is a fair bit of loose rock but this will clean up with traffic to leave behind a classic pitch.

A crimpy move with a high left foot off the deck to delicate crimpy climbing, mainly on the left side of the arete. Two interesting pods to navigate through above.

A hard move off the deck (some may wish to stick clip) to lots of great huecos with one crimpy reachy bit around the 3rd bolt. 4 bolts to anchors.

As classic as it gets. 

 Begin on Joker's Wild but immediately work left and up a series of left-leaning features. A crimpy crux leads to a wild finish making a big move (with big, but clean airtime if you blow it) to an incut near the top of the route. 

 Clip the anchor then grab a jug over the lip; or grab the jug then clip the anchor.

This area encompasses several scattered crags, including a small collection of crags known as The Enclaves that sit on the northern flank of White Rock Peak as well as the stand-alone route "Foreign Import" which is located in the northern-most gully north of the Angel Food Wall.

 All of these routes, as of 2019, face generally north and yield good shady climbing in warmer temps, however some of the testpieces - and best routes - involve thin, crimpy climbing that is best suited for colder temps. The Enclaves in particular are a little slice of gritstone: Fantastic, short pitches with mixed protection with a few great headpoint-style projects for short winter days if you can brave the cold.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Enclaves and White Rock Springs North