Romp up the crack/corner system until the crack pinches to nothing; lean out right to gain the finger crack that quickly becomes steep, thin-hands. Difficulty depends on hand size and perhaps wingspan.

30 m rappel from slung horn.

Anywhere else, this would be a 3 star climb; have dropped a star on account of the approach...

Life on Mars

Golden Years

Much Too Fist

The core of this climb is 60’ of parallel #2 camalot crack in impeccable rock. 40’ of approach climbing before the business and 30’ of chimney to exit. The difficulty will depend on hand size; Golden Years is slightly easier than the Incredible Hand Crack at Indian Creek. Golden Years does not flare wider than #2 camalot and only overhangs ever so slightly for ever so little distance. If it were as accessible as Gold Mind, it would get 4 stars.

Up and right, following a crack/flake that takes green/red camalots, up the wide crack (#4 +/-) to the glaringly obvious hand crack. From the ledge at the top of the hand-crack, scoot up the chimney—gear in the chockstones.

The core of this climb is 50’ of #3 camalot crack in a mighty flake of impeccable rock; 40’ of approach climbing before the business and 20’ of low angle slab/crack to exit. The difficulty will depend on hand size; Much Too Fist is slightly harder than Super Crack of the Desert at Indian Creek. The business on Much Too Fist starts in slightly overhanging, #4=>#3 camalot territory; pulling out of the steep bit might also deserve a #4. Then just keep appendages stuffed in the crack, progress in an upward fashion, plug in #3s, enjoy.

Descent: Still a work in progress; we rappelled with double 60 m ropes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Golden Years