If you climb the grade, get on this!   If you don't, this is the reason to train.   Put off that patio project for another summer and go climbing instead.  Miss your son's birthday because of good temps.  It's that good. 

  It's a well bolted line that dominantly follows the arete, staying on the right face with a few shared holds with the climb to the left, Sith. 

  Hit the first two bolts with a devious thin sequence and tenuous second clip (there could be other more secure beta here).  Make a big move to a tiny hold then grab the solid left sidepull for the 3rd clip.  Gain the matched crimp for the 4th clip.  Take a deep breath then enter the crux.  Apparently my method is not the approved method, but it worked.  Cross right right hand to the 45 degree portion of the crimp rail then work the left hand up the arete.  Paste your right foot  on the very edge of the arete, up high (smear only).  Flag the left around the arete then lunge to the shallow heart-shaped pocket.  Work over to the clip then up for one last hard move:  Left pocket, right mono, high left foot then crank into the jug for a rest. 

  From here follow the arete but it's only sporting to try and stay on the right face as much as possible.  The middle 3rd of the climb is fairly easy but super fun.  There's some harder moves at the top so keep the pump under control.  Keep pushing until you gain the hold over the anchors.

Tough Love

Blast Off

Choobies

Sith

black sunday

Sinister

Hail President Screwed!

Space Balls

Choda

ChewCocka

Black Hole

Lactation Station

Han Job Solo

Establishing Dominance

Gabba the Nut

death star

Admiral Slackbar

Paternity Test

Obi-Wan KanBlowMe

Breast Pump

Muira, Muira On The Wall

Passover

Mister Fister

Power of the Darkside

Darth Slaydar

Star Fighter

E-walk

Gives Good Helmet

Belaybesitter

Tough Lady

Suck To Blow

Into Exile

Millennium Falcon

Black Magic

Concracktion

Stump in the Rump

Prison Bound

Shady Lady

Start left of the arete and get your ass handed to you by a steep section armed with a series of pumpy pockets and edges with daddy issues. 

  Use your Jedi skill to get established on a slab with a serious attitude problem. This route desires to kill your onsight and red point attempts. It's not impossible, just hard as hell...especially if you are a Star Wars fans that hated the prequel trilogy.  

  And to be honest here, folks...some of us in the local scene hate the first five bolts of this route as much as most members of Generation X hate Jar Jar Binks. We think the start of this route is kinda shitty since the rock is always a bit wet, slippery and gross. There is, however, a way to get around this. 

  An alternative start to this route involves climbing the first six bolts of Death Star and heading right into the seventh bolt of Sith. This gives you a better start and all the good upper holds of Sith in a variation known as "No Shith" or "Death Sith". Try this if you are trying to climb this route during summer rainy seasons that are causing the worst kind of send killing humidity.

Pull a pockety black bulge to a flake and commit to the blonde headwall. Follow bolt line around the right side of the roof to a fun techy crux moving back left into the black rock.

black sunday is a great little route at the dark side.  this might be the best candidate for a first 12a route here, given its shorter length, lack of brutal tweaking pockets, and perfect protection. 

  begin through a steep, intimidating, yet surprisingly not too bad starting section on good pockets.  this deposits you on a nice section of vertical rock.  try to get a decent shake and a game plan before launching up into the sequential crux.  from there, easier but not too easy climbing will take you to the anchors.  don't worry too much about the orange lichen, there are 'almost' no holds in that zone... 

  this one is a tricky onsight (probably like many spearfish routes), but once you get it sorted out the climbing is pretty straight forward.

Begin on a triangular block and start hailing your way up a bunch of goofy holds. At about the fourth bolt enter a killing field of crazy crimps splayed across a black swath of redpoint crux fashioned straight out of the bowels of hell. 

  Hint! Don't bother with all the intermediate combinations. Think funky sidepull to a huge move with a combative crimp. 

  After a left hand savior jug appears from the blackness of all that blank space, the route offers pleasant climbing on jugs (and other largish holds) that don't suck. Climbers who succeed at the crux will find that the finishing moves still keep the pump a burning in their whole damned body. 

  This one will make you feel as if your ass in on the front half of your body. GET ON IT! Those who simply have the ability to hold on for dear life may have a suitable advantage over those who are total puds. Other than that, be prepared to flail and have fun. This one is soooo good!

This is a route that has lost the Bleeps, the Sweeps, and the Creeps. 

  Small holds. Smeary feet. What a treat. This route can't be beat.

This route will surely suck you in with its difficult beginning that will be nearly impossible to escape. Break free from the gravity to better holds about halfway up. Enjoy some killer big holds and good rests before committing to another crux on the black rock above. 

  KILLER CLIMBING ON BOMBER ROCK! This route does not suffer from the wetness factor that adds a letter grade on routes like Sith.

Do you recall that part in The Empire Strikes Back when that pud, Luke, was trying to use the force to get his X-Wing out of the swamp to no avail? That is how this climb feels. 

  Get ready to spend a looooong time struggling your way up this one, young Jedi. A hair raising start leads to a blank, black section of climb that has a hidden pocket far, far to the right, somewhere in a galaxy which is a long, long reach away. 

  If you can stick that pocket, the rest of the climb is not necessarily a cakewalk, but the climbing is doable if you don't mind holding on for dear life on small ledges with small holds. 

  An excellent 5.11 project for a climber who refuses to give up. Do this climb! It's actually good fun! Just remember to wear your brown pants.

Do you wanna see if you can do the Kessel Run in less than twelve Parsecs? Do you have commitment issues but still wanna show that you are man enough to save the princess in distress? 

  Look no further! This 5.12a is about as much fun as a barrel full of Wookies and lobs more hard obstacles at you than Darth Vader during a hissy-fit! 

  A fairly continuous saga of 5.12a and elevenish moves that get trickier the higher you go. Be prepared to get shot down, you stuck-up, half-witted, scruffy-looking nerf-herder!  Unlike some of you guys with a hair-trigger, this route might take a lot longer than two minutes to complete. Definately a climb is way harder than it looks and will more than likely have you taking more than one ride into hyperspace.

A spectacular crux sequence should draw anybody breaking into the grade to this climb.  Climb through the crux of Passover then split right at the undercling/block.  Grab a quick shake here then head straight up to the bulge on small crimps.  Clip then grab a small left sidepull to initiate the right traverse.  The feet are terrible but the undercling cross to the pocket should make you remember why you love climbing.  Pull over the bulge and find the 'thank god' clip hold or take the whip.  Easier moves gain the anchors. 

  [Edit:  Grade changed to reflect the comments below regarding the moved bolt.  13a posted to 12d]

death star is yet another fantastic route at the dark side. use the force wisely to prevent detonation of your forearms.... 

  begin up a slightly overhanging section of tan rock that is a bit soapy/mungy, but quickly improves as it fades into a minor left facing seam/corner.  the climbing is fairly continuous for 6 bolts or so - never too difficult, but never   too easy either.  catch a good rest and launch upwards into a bulging section on brilliant climbing with generally good hands and generally tricky feet.  feel the hate flowing through your forearms as you race to the anchors. 

  this route is awesome.  long, great climbing, mostly great rock, good protection (although you must use your senses to find the best clipping holds young jedi).  the FA crew hit the jackpot with this one.

The newest member of the Dark Side crew is definitely one of the best on the wall. Shares the first 8 bolts of Obi-Wan KanBlowMe. Enjoy a swath of beginning pockets and crimps. Pull the bouldery roof at the middle of the route and enjoy a lawn chair of a rest. Once you've got your nerves calmed down, traverse right along a serious under-cling crack system. The Slackbar variation leads you to finger cracks and juggy things that will make your eyes pop out your head until you get positioned under another massive roof.  

  Attack the roof with everything you have and stand up to reach a bread loaf pinch and a side pull, rocket those feet up to something that is friendly to the Rebel Alliance. Take aim and fire for a left hand pocket while launching yourself onto the very edge of an exposed arete and well above your last bolt. 

  BE PREPARED TO GET SHOT DOWN! This climb is full value and on your ass from start to finish with a classic, heart-breaking red point crux at the end. Expect to get blasted! So far, many of us in the Canyon Crew have turned this bulbous beast into a full time project. GET ON IT AND GO FOR A RIDE INTO HYPERSPACE!

Unlike the awkard situation on the Jerry Springer show, getting slapped with this short route is actually a pleasant experience. 

  Small crimps lead to more than one hole (which might be the reason why you had to submit to this in the first place!) into which you may insert an appendage of your choosing. 

  Gets tricky at the top! Come on! Admit it's yours and then get on this fun waiting game of a climb.

This climb will prove itself to be a worthy adversary for any Jedi Master. From start to finish this route contains many feet of classic canyon climbing in all its imposing forms. 

  Things start hard at the beginning. Use your mellow mind control to sneak into a docking bay of sick pockets and nearly perfect crimps to big jugs under a roof. Get it all back and pull a mighty powerful set of roof pull moves to a nice ledge to rest on. 

  Get yourself set up and rested up at the first black bolt and then follow the trail of black hangers. This is where the dark side of the force meets even more force as you pull another roof and work your way up a steep head wall of tiny crimps and small side pulls. Battle through the hardest crux sequence with quite a few feet of utterly fantastic terrain that will blow your mind when you huck for a large jug and paste your feet to absolutely nothing before you make a life-saving clip. 

  Enjoy three more spaced out bolts on sick, black slab with nothing to hold on to right up until the anchors. There is no escaping how freaking cool this route is. Anyone who has enjoyed all of its Star Wars themed neighbors will cheer with joy and excitement when they finally send this worthy addition to the Dark Side universe.

Get ready to get pumped! A hard start with good two finger pockets will get you squeezed up and over a bulge that totally looks like a breast even if it doesn't necessarily feel like one. 

  Work past the bulge to a crux that requires some thought and a throw to a big hold. The rest of the climbing involves navigating overhung ledges with big holds only after you figure out how to use the small ones. 

  This is a big climb! Be sure to eat your Wheaties before attempting the red point! One of the best 5.11b's in the canyon!

Lace those shoes on tight for this technical climb which will have your fingers screaming.

Really fun route with a distinct crux and a few hard moves at the top to keep you on your toes.  Climb up the easy ramp for 1.5 bolts then get on the face.  You can go left or right of the bolt line, though it looks like most go right.  If you go right, traverse left at the bulge at what should feel like the first difficult moves with the goal of gaining a right hand 45 degree crimp and a left hand pocket.  Pick your feet wisely to make the big reach to the sloper (crux) and then clip.  Don't worry about the fall - it's clean.  Gain the undercling for a quick shake then tackle the technical moves in the black limestone above.

A big, bad-ass of a climb that starts as an about-face with nice, big, bad-ass pockets on steep terrain that never, ever lets up.  

  You'll know when you're fist deep in the shit as a series of huge cracks throw down some punishing, yet oddly pleasurable pulls and deep fist jams. The route gets freaky when it makes you reach around to yank on some big, hard ledges that climax in some moves that might have you wishing you had experimented with some other rough fantasy. 

  THIS ROUTE IS AWESOME! In the end, it is a tough climb that becomes nearly devine when you figure out exactly what the beta is and can turn the rough stuff into fetishly good fun!

It doesn't matter if you have been climbing for one season or one hundred. It doesn't matter if you've sent 5.6 or 5.15...you will give into the Power of the Darkside! 

  You will start in a crack and layback until your arms scream from the force of being ripped from their sockets. You will ascend to a small ledge where you will gain a slight reprieve from the battle fought so far and will be given a chance to form your new strategy for the war to come. 

  A series of small pockets and crimps get you to a roof feature that requires moves so precise and powerful your lightsaber is sure to go limp. 

  Recharge your batteries for the freak factor to follow! After the roof the upcoming laybacks and finger locks lead to big, pumpy moves on big pockets. This pumpfest ain't over until the fat lady chokes!  

  You will beg, you will plead! You will whimper in pain and scream unholy things about your father, but not matter how hard you try to stay on the rock, you will submit to the Power of the Darkside! 

  Hot freaking damn! DO THIS CLIMB! You will not onsight! You will not send! You will feel the power coarsing through your veins like lightning bolts of furious justice! Don't call take! Ride the lightning! This thing is hard as hell and rated for red point...come and see if you have what it takes to take on the POWER OF THE DARKSIDE!

A delicate and nearly miserable start leads to insanely fun climbing on big holds that just don't seem to be in the right place.If you feel like doing battle with a big, bad-ass route, this climb is an excellent adversary. The torture lets up at about the sixth or seventh bolt and a swath of big, fun, five-elevenish moves leads to a nice rest. Take advantage! The next moves are over a killer roof with a boulder problem finish that will surely be your doom!

Blast off through a battlefield of outer space small holds and tricky moves. Power through the pump! Gain a galactic good time of sick sequences as you dog fight yourself through multiple cruxes that might just cause you to crash land. Get extra points for saving the universe from bad beta.

A route that definitely pushes the outer limits of good taste and super-duper five fun. 

  Starts out with a doubtful huck to a sick, yet slopey rail and the route only gets more and more fun from there. 

  Galactic sized Jugs! Star-filled Sidepulls! Space Cruiser Crimps! You name it, you can grab it! And the fun simply does not stop until you stick your Schwartz into the final hole at the anchors.

A neat route with a hella hard start and a crux that smacks ya in the face not even half way up the route. The crux is a technical difficulty with small pockets and crucial foot placements that you have to stick just right in order to get a much appreciated two finger pocket. 

  The rest of the climb is like crawling up a set of stairs until you get about twenty feet from the anchor where the finishing moves get a bit interesting again.

A solid pitch of amazing movement. If you'e looking for something a little harder at the darkside and not psyched on The Hole in the Wall then this is the route for you.

 Start on Tough Love to the 8th bolt. Transition into Shady Lady at this point off a sloper right hand pocket and left hand skinny pinch into the crimps out right. Three more bolts of Shady to the top.

Don't let the name fool you! This route neither sucks nor blows! Suck To Blow is a beyond-awesome, intermediate climb  that may have noobs flailing if a crucial sidepull on a black, boob-like structure isn't used and a crucial undercling in a not-so-obvious spot is not stroked properly. 

  Suck some air in and blow it out, GET YOUR FEET UP! And hang on for the ride of your life! Let yourself get sucked into projecting this one until you are completely blown away by its sheer awesomeness!

Good link up between Gaydar and Black Sunday. Start out on Darth Gaydar and after the 3rd bolt go right  and get ready to grab some shitty holds. Pick your own poison between the monos and biter ceimps. One bolt crux but this one will keep you engaged to the anchor on BS. Worth doing after you've ticked the other classics at dark side. Stays dry for a bit if it starts to rain.

A route that deserves more stars than in gets in the guidebook. Has been described as having holds, for the first two bolts, that are always sandy like Tattooine. 

  The opening holds are actually bad ass if you just use em' right! Think of it as escaping Luke's shithole of a home planet. BUT! By the time you reach a series of sick, hard to read pockets at the second bolt, you are in the stratosphere roof sequence. By now the sand is gone and you better find the right holds and hang on tight. Get your ass into orbit because the Millennium Falcon will shoot you down if you are a puddly padwan. 

  The climbing becomes glorious after that slightly sandy annoyance and the rock becomes sick! Climb the fabulous asteroid field of crimps to BASTARD UNDERCLINGS! Find your way to a dihedral sequence that involves powerful, precise pulling over the bulge from Jabba's bowels. Find holds on the right side of the bolt line...find the right combination of feet...and stick some sick crimps just right to a jug. SICK SPORTY CRUX SEQUENCE!

 For the final moves, get caught in a tractor beam of beautiful jugs, ledgey feet and one last hard sequence with massively positive crimps to gain the anchors.

Oh my God! It hurts! But the pain is totally worth it in the end. This climb is phenomenal! Be prepared for big 5.11 moves to big holds with tinny-weenie-bikini holds in between. Starts in a crack that leads to a layback which then positions you on a dainty ledge with only a couple of killer mono's to crank your way to the next hold if you can find it. 

  The pain doesn't stop there! Keep navigating your way through hard to read holds up around the bend. This climb feels forever long because you won't see the anchors till it's nearly over. Just keep breathing and pushing your way up this canyon masterpiece the reward will be worth the effort.

Well, I guess I better give this route its just deserts before some dink from Colorado gives it the bomb.  

  This route is not the prettiest gal at the dance, but she does put out. Starts on some ugly holds just to the right of Star Fighter and Millennium Falcon. The holds are big and dirty, however, for those climbers, who are not detracted by the messy stuff that the great outdoors throws at ya, the challenge might just add to the fun. Climb past a grassy ledge on your right, tip-toe past the stump, pucker up that anal sphincter, and enjoy some really sick, honkin,' juggy-ass holds on an arete up to the majestic finish. When the rock gets good, the climbing gets great. Two or three stars depending upon your level of expertise and connoisseurness.  

  Often climbed by locals who are too pooped to fart their way up the harder routes, this climb usually gets overlooked, but is worth doing if you want a challenge for the grade.

A big, bad muthafucka of a route that is more 5.12c than 5.12b. Take on a ton of tricky holds that will lead you in cuffs to the big house. Find a bunch of fun moves that help you deal with tiny holds that end up on jugs for your Wookie hands to crush with confidence. Rest up when you can! The last few bolts are the ball and chain around your leg where a heart breaker of a redpoint crux will slam shut on your dreams of escape. This is a super awesome route if you love punishment. You might have to drop a knee. Just don't drop the soap.

The "New Shady Lady" No Stemming. Start to the right of 'Tough Love'  Stick clip the first bolt (15ft off the ground)    Make cool hard moves using little slopey, textured, bitchy sidepulls and crimps to a good hold at the 1st bolt. Get a little shake and bang out the rest of the burly crux to a good hold at the 2nd bolt.  Continue up the bolt line using face holds and the arete here and there to a nice, airy redpoint crux. Pumpy climbing on great holds to the top.    This route is too good.

And here it is, young evil Jedi, the wall where you prove yourself worthy. Feel it! Breath it in! Let yourself sucumb to the power of The Dark Side! And remember, good guys wear black.

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Routes in Dark Side Wall