Standout pitch at the Biscuit, named after a somewhat mythical goat. This is one of my favorite pitches I have ever climbed, and I hope others will get a chance to enjoy it. Crux is right off the belay in the first three bolts, then enters a golden, immaculate slab-hedral, eventually gaining the exposed arete. 5 more bolts of climbing on the grey stone takes you all the way to the summit of the Biscuit. Go sign the register and keep Georgia in your hearts. 

Georgia the Goat Memorial Sport Route

Swifting

Tanglehead

It’s Not Me It’s You

Double Bypass

Greatest 5.8 in the State

Tea leaf dancers

Quailin with Cheney

Neology

Glory Box

Desert Snow Storm

King of Snake

The Biscuiteer

Paraglider paranoia

Breakfast is a Feeling

Hands-free waffles

Jeff-Detector

The true biscuiteer sees through the choss to the holds underneath, kind of like that matrix guy, Theo. They know that some holds, not unlike life, won’t last forever, but holds off-route may last even less so. As such, the true biscuiteer sticks near the bolt line, knowing that there are holds there at the grade. The true biscuiteer forgets a helmet, but knows it’s best if the belayer wears theirs anyways. The true biscuiteer relishes crystal filled, sort of sharp pockets, and accepts the chossy roof for what it is, knowing that the top-out could be worth it. Most of all the true biscuiteer knows that if a hold looks like choss and is covered in dirt, that’s because it probably is. Though a crowbar has been diligently applied, the true biscuiteer knows that only so much limestone can be exhumed, and to crimp with discretion. Such is life.This route now has a 2nd pitch (double rising, ~5.11), but due to some giant blocks in the first 2 bolts, should maybe be avoided for the time being. It is very good, but biscuiteers should take it on with extreme discretion.

Quintessential Biscuit climbing up a shallow low-angle corner leads to the white calcified streak. A short, thought-provoking crux leads you into the first of the holes. Swift your way up steep, big holes and pockets to the anchor up in the alcove. Apart from the brief crux, which is more weird than physical, this is all fun 5.10 climbing.

Fairly sustained with three harder sequences, the first probably being the crux. The first sequence involves some cool footwork, strange side-pulls and a throw to a breadloaf. The second is some thin climbing on the gray stone. The last section is still involved, but awesome through calcified chert and some tufa blobs in a groove. A great pitch.

Easy to the third bolt where the climbing begins. Pull your way up through somewhat cryptic side pulls and interesting climbing. After side-pulling your way up to the last two bolts, stem up some good chert feet and dodge out left for a run to the chains. Getting a good rest before the top will help avoid an insecure pump-out at the anchor.

Climbs big flake features that are a little scary on the lower section, but the position is pretty cool, and the rock in the roof is awesome. Climb the snake flake then head up into a small square slot, and right through holes into the bottom of the roof. Take a left trending path through two more bolts over the first two roofs. Moderate throughout except a bouldery crux revolving around a mysteriously attached blocky pinch in the roof. Easy climbing to the chains.

The large pillar/flake used to have a secondary pillar next to it that was solid enough to hand jam one year, and fell off with a gentle push the next. The giant pillar could fall off at some point, and would obliterate the belay, so I strongly recommend checking it out before you fully commit to it.

The name implies this is the greatest 5.8 in the state. Turns out there are plenty 5.10 moves and is therefore not 5.8 nor the greatest in the state. However, there is fun climbing to be had.** Bee hive has been seen around 5th bolt. No bees December 2020. Bee vigilant. 

After gaining the double bypass belay, two pitches of 5.12 make for a three pitch outing.1) A weird, somewhat chossy traverse under the big roof into a really fun boulder problem. Can link into this pitch from the top of quailing and lower off with an 80, though without a lot of care, rope drag is horrendous. Don't try to lower off with a 70. ~5.12c2) Pre-clip first bolt and traverse further right into a fun boulder problem off the hanging belay. Then up into a vague groove feature. Insecure, off-balance, technical climbing up the groove leads to easy climbing to the summit. Felt harder than the first pitch to me but I fell off. This last pitch is open and fully bolted.

This route provides an easier way to access the anchors for the second pitch Georgia, but is worth doing on its own. The bottom is 5.9ish. The upper section holds some well-protected technical weirdness, and one pleasant hand-jam and a finger lock. The rock up there is unfortunately a little soft, and while I spent two days cleaning it, you might get hit in the face.

Nice slab leads into some very enjoyable corner climbing. At the top of the corners, escape into some pockets and an awesome cobble-hole. From the jug, clip a high bolt and pull the crux. After the crux, big moves on flakes and holes take you through 5 more bolts to some pumpy crimping on smooth grey stone and a steep (for the Biscuit) finish.

 The rock is a little dirty in the middle, but the top section is outstanding, and after the midway jug, the climbing is pretty continuous.

Fun climbing up the left-facing corner takes you into the box beneath roof. Delicate traverse left takes you out of the box onto the nice tufa, with glory. One more challenging sequence gets you established on the pillar above the roof and then it’s fun to the chains.

 The position on this route is pretty cool and the rock is also quite nice.

This is the first route we bolted here. Rapping in was kind of terrifying and then it snowed. 

 Surmount the chossy cactus chute, and go left into the corner onto the top of the major pile. From here, thin, exposed, and a little runout chert climbing takes you to the top of the pillar. Apart from the start, this pitch is quite awesome.

 There is a beehive about 40 feet up somewhere in the area between this and the greatest 5.8 as of Jan. 2019.

A new route that goes right up to (but not out) the big roof at the top of Double bypass. Fairly straightforward climbing that gets a bit harder as you go, with some fun slabbing on calcified rock into the recess under the roof, where it is easy to reach out and clip the chains from some cool mini tufa blobs. Named after Tigre the dog, who was a bit suspicious of the nearby paragliders the day we did this.Generously bolted, this is probably one of the more friendly leads at the wall for the new/aspiring 5.10 climber.

Feature climbing to a leftwards traverse sets you up for a long move to the mono. A lot of cool holds follow.

Low angle into sustained and clean feature climbing corner weirdness. Easy to cruise if you know what to do, but otherwise could feel like a hands free breakfast experience. Expect underclings and slab mantles.Back clean the 4th bolt after you clip the 5th.

This route is pretty bad. It’s a bit scary, not very fun climbing, and there is choss to be had. Also the rope usually gets stuck when you pull it. Takes the left line on the pillar from the ledge to a chossy clipping jug. Now you know you don’t have to climb it.

Located in and around the 4 stacked large roofs in the amphitheater which are the most obvious feature on the Biscuit. Morning shade. Best times to climb are in the morning and around sunset when the swifts come out. The rightmost 4 routes (Swifting to Biscuiteer) are not really in the amphitheater and get early sun but are also more breezy.

 Unsorted routes are 2nd pitches (more to come!).

 The big stash hole at the base sometimes has a giant rattlesnake in it, but not recently. I also recently found a rattlesnake in a different hole ten feet off the ground. Beware.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Ampitheater