Thin steep face climbing with a big reach through a distinct crux. Save some gas for the rest of the route because it doesn't let up much all the way to the top.

This route was originally rated 5.12a but after a key knob broke went un-repeated for several years and was listed as such in the most current guidebook of the day. However, it has since been lead multiple times by several different people. Current consensus to date is 5.12b/c leaning more toward B.

Harder Than It Used To Be

Bewilderbeast

Bolee Gold

Hooker's Haven

Spring 2007. Tr'd once to affirm viability and ascertain bolt placement. Lead on first attempt. Beautiful, clean, high friction rock that was never climbed because the route doesn't reach the ground!

Start up Beast of Burden until 3rd bolt is about head high. Traverse left on delicate moves about 10 feet (11c?). Head straight up cool moves past knobs (sling). Crux starts when leaving the huge knob and the next 10 feet or so (11d?), but remains tricky after that (11). At top a tricky very insecure move (11c?) gains the arete and then follow to the top. One can bail left to finish up Gallows Pole which is easier (but that defeats the purpose). Easy to set TR from end of first pitch of Hardings Chimney/Gallows Pole with 60m.

Bolee Gold begins at the end of the big ramp on the south face of Sugarloaf.  From here, follow the line of bolts straight up the thin face towards the top anchors of 'Hookers Haven' (the 12a to the right).  Bolee Gold doesn't use the anchors, but continues left towards the arete then up to the first set of anchors.  The first pitch totals 7 bolts.  The second pitch continues straight up past another 7 bolts to another hanging belay.

The two pitches can be done as one for a 150' non-stop sustained crimp-fest.  This is what I base the 3 star rating on.

From here, continue directly upwards past some flakes, then onto easier slab that is runout, but bolt-protected 5.8.

Fun fingers leads to some stretchy moves out of an undercling to gain the crack. Once in the corner, relaxation proves difficult.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Face