Step up on a block to clip a glued Leeper Z piton, then make crux moves through the bulgy roof getting up to and past the second bolt. Continue up on easier terrain with many loose blocks to an anchor shared with

Red Hanger Dihedral

. Your belayer will probably want to stay under the shelter of the roof as we pulled off several toaster-sized blocks.

Glued Pin Route

Unknown

Leftmost

Red Hanger Dihedral, NW Face

Move up left and then back right to the 1st bolt (hidden from ground). There are tricky moves between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. The crux is in the middle of the climb (5th bolt?) at a vertical section with rounded holds. Don't use the loose block sitting up and left. The huge horn at 8th bolt is awesome! Cruise easily to chains after pulling past it.

If anyone has more details of this climb (name, 1st ascent party and date, difficulty, etc), I will update this route.

Follow 12 or so bolts up the face, with a crux coming around mid-way. You will want gear to place at crux, since the bolt is at or below your feet. It's possible to bypass the crux on the right, but don't fall. This is easier than

Red Hanger

.

We TR'ed this route. At the crux roof the two holds where the slab meets, the wall had a lot of lichen on them, one is a undercling. You might be able to get a RP in at first, it would be a scary lead. There is a cool move going over roof though!

This rute would be better with a bolt on the slab before committing to move above the tiny undercling.

This 35m bolted dihedral is hard to miss when viewing the wall from any distance. It seems to be one of the easier routes on the wall, as it is generally vertical or less-than-vertical . Good stemming technique will certainly help navigate the sections of dihedral between rest ledges.

An awkward bulge guards the first two (red) hangers, then another bulge yields to more straightforward stemming work. Work up past bolts on each face, and surmount an almost-roof to reach the chains.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South-southwest Face (aka Santa Rita Wall)