From the Cluck Defiance belay 3 pitches up follow a shallow dihedral up the right side of the face to a bolted belay shared with Sin Will Find You.

Yonder Stands The Sinner

Limited Access

Traditional Values

Emily

Full Moon Rising

Jackass Roof

The Monkey Wrench Gang

Party Boy

Big Bailout

Clean and Jerk

Laissez Faire

Fun In The Son

Steve O

Bonzai Pipeline

Sin Will Find You

Silent Spring

No Bolts for the Wicked

Johnny Knoxville

Sarah Caroline

Lucky Streak

Los Desaparecidos

The Gong Flake

Cluck Defiance

Wee Man

From the Cluck Defiance belay 3 pitches up, follow 3 bolts up the left side of the face to a bolted belay passing a small tree ledge after the first bolt.  Don't bother topping out after the belay.

Left side of grassy meadow below central part of Main Wall left of the obvious ramp feature.

P1- Follow line of 4 or 5 bolts to bolted belay.

P2- Go straight up past 3 bolts to bolted belay.

P3- Go straight up past 2 bolts to bolted belay.

P4- Go straight up to top of cliff. Rap the route.

20 feet right of Los Desparecidos look for an old bolt.  Climb past it if you dare using small cams and ball nuts to an out of sight bolted belay.  Second and third pitches ease off and go to the left end of the roof band at the top.  Rap the route.

This beautiful line is named after two beautiful girls.  Brian and I both have daughters sharing this fine moniker.

Climb up to a flake with a crack through it.  Get on top of it then climb past a bolt, then up and left (crux) to a small corner where you may find some gear.  Blast up to a bolted belay.  Second pitch awaits.

Go up The Ramp a short way until you come to a bolt.  Climb up passing a second bolt to a belay.

P2-  Climb to roof. Go left and either go to end and rappel or pull the obvious crack (5.11).

Koz took a fall on the FA and ripped the seat of his pants.  Unfortunately for his belayer, he was going commando.

Follow the zig zagging roof band low on the left side of the Main Wall to a nice belay alcove near the apex.

P2- Pull the roof at its peak then either traverse left to a tree belay OR pull roof and continue up Johnny Knoxville (5.10) for 3 more pitches.  If you go left to tree, it is a walk off to the base.

P1- start at right side of Silent Spring buttress and climb up, trending right to a bolted belay.

P2- climb up and again trend right past two bolts to a bolted belay.

P3- climb straight up to a tree island below the obvious roof band.  Rap the route.

This route will make you want to dance naked in public!  Climb the face past one bolt to the second break in Jackass Roof.  Pull through the roof, pass one bolt going to the tree belay.  Walk off left.

This route was done at about the time of the "Big Bailout". Proof that Laissez Faire economics may not be the best policy....

Despite the slabby appearance from the ground, this climb has some pretty good features. Climb the greenish colored slab past some cool moves to a difficult undercling flake at the 3rd bolt. Undercling and lieback out right and up past another bolt to the "Ramp" ledge. Place a directional cam (0.75 camalot) and sling it very long, then move right to lower off of Laissez Faire anchors.

The obvious low angle ramp which delineates the right side of the Main Wall. Several routes start from the belay ledges and head up to the looming roof band above.

Literally interpreted as "hands off".  "A disproven right wing theory that holds that the natural order, when undisturbed by artificial regulation, tends to secure the maximum wellbeing for the community."  Sort of like the argument for rap bolting.

Start in a shallow right facing dihedral with natural gear.  Then crank past 4 bolts to the Ramp.

Climb face to the roof.  Belay under obvious 10 foot horizontal crack.  Crank the roof to top.  To descend, walk to left end of roof band and 3 raps will get you down.  double ropes needed to descend.

A bit right of Johnny Knoxville is a boulder.  Climb it.  From here go straight past one bolt to the roof.  Pull this stunt off however you can then pass two more bolts to the belay.  More to come later.

Ascend the ramp to intersection with the roof band.  Hang ten under this cool wave of granite.  Take it to the tree belay at the left end or crank the roof somewhere.  Cowabunga!

towards the left end of the wall is a low, zig zag roof band.  100 feet left of this is a black dioritic dike that goes from top to bottom.

P1- Follow dike up left side of buttress, past a small roof to a bolted belay.

P2- follow dike to bolted belay.

P3- follow dike to belay ledge.

P4- follow dike to top of cliff.  Rap the route.

Pitch 1 -climb obvious crack and head left to a pine.

Pitch 2 -climb under roof system and pull through before the off-width. Look for a yellow sling on a pine.

"Hello, I'm Johnny Knoxville and today we are going face climbing".

P1- Climb the face below the Jackass Roof apex passing 2 bolts to the belay alcove.

P2- Pull the roof and head straight up passing 2 bolts to a belay.

P3- Climb up past one bolt to a belay.

P4- climb straight up past no bolts to a belay at the base of a large roof band.

P5- stay tuned!

This twin route to Emily is named after my Emily's equally beautiful twin sister.

Face climb past several bolts to a shared belay with Emily.

If you like slabs then you should love this one.  The climbing is on excellent rock and is reminiscent of Stone Mountain style eyebrow edging. Climb the first 3 pitches of "Silent Spring" to the small belay ledge with a tree.  Climb the thin crack feature (just right of the silent spring corner) up to a point where it is possible to traverse right into the streak.  Continue to the top past 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor at 180'.  The crux is at the 3rd bolt, and is well protected for slab.

20 feet right of Limited Access is another line of bolts. Start here passing three or four bolts and some small natural gear to a bolted belay that is out of sight a long ways up. Pitches two and three go straight up to left end of roof band. Rap the route.

The name means "The Disappeared Ones". There was one rusty old bolt when we first started developing the cliff. Found out later on two of my heroes had been there years prior, started the line and a storm struck. They never returned.

Find the scary looking detached flake and climb it.  Ascend the face above to the Monkey Wrench Gang bolted belay.

At second belay on Silent Spring, trend up and right to the obvious Defiance Roof band.  Pull the left side of the roof band, pass one bolt and continue to a large bolted belay ledge.  Two other routes start here: Sin Will Find You and Yonder Stands The Sinner.

The route name is part of an old lawyer joke, since that is what Brian and I are.  What is the difference between a rooster and a lawyer?  The rooster clucks defiance and the lawyer...

Pull through the Jackass Roof at the first break on the left end.  the crux is shorter than a midget but a large ape index helps.  Belay at the tree above.  Walk off left.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Main Wall