Pitch 1:   Start up the black seem until it widens to fingers on casual terrain. Continue straight up to finally reach a ledge off to the right, just before the big block feature next to a shallow stem chimney with twin cracks. Belay here on gear. Pro to 1" (155')

Pitch 2:   Head up into the shallow stem chimney (pro to .5). Make a few challenging moves (5.8) and then head up to the headwall above. Once at the headwall, move left 15' to a steep dark fist/hand crack that cuts through orange rock. Yard up and climb the crack (5.9) for 20' before it ease off. Continue up and slightly right before reaching 4th class rock. Be mindful of loose litter rocks here. Belay where under any of the overlaps. Walk off to the right. (155')

My Senorita

Gold Nugget

Golden Tower Direct

Redtail

Follows an amazing line up the golden coloured tower near the center of Hoffman Peak. P1 - Follow an obvious crack to a gear belay (5.7). P2 - Move right, climbing easy knobs, until it reaches a somewhat rotten crack. Follow the crack to the top of the tower. Build an anchor amongst the boulders (5.6) P3 - Down climb abit form the notch and gain the slabby face. Move past three bolts, over an easy trough to a bolted chain anchor. Rappel down the adjacent route ( 2 ropes) or scramble to the summit - 400 feet of 3rd class.

There is also an easy walk-off.

Climb the face to the left of the middle Golden Tower with a few varied cams to start and the rest is bolts.

Contrary to the unclear guidebook statement it can NOT be rappelled with one 60m rope. It could if you include the lower top anchors to climbers left and on last rappel are willing to carefully rappel into the chimney and then down climb low 5th class terrain unroped from there. Not even sure a 70m would make it but it would get you to easier down climbing.

To climb you can start up to the first bolt along features on the face closer to the tower or along a crack further from it at about the same difficulty. The bolted face below the first anchors is fairly sustained at 9+/10-. (There are no lower anchors on 1st pitch as might seem from guidebook).

Start up the Shooting Star Chimney (5.8+) on the left side of the Golden Tower. Head out onto the tower when features allow it, usually along a ramp of sorts that angles to the tower middle to join the direct route. But move closer to tower left after skirting a roof and stop and belay above it somewhat level with the ramp end. Continue up left side of tower on amazing and easy, very featured knobs.

Finish on tower direct by going up the face above the right side of the back of the tower top and past a few somewhat superfluous bolts and continuing along to the left of or over, a lower angle shoulder high roof.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hoffman Mountain