10a slab. A bit more variety and adventure than some of the other more straightforward routes nearby. Challenge level seems to jump up a bit in comparison to nearby 5.9’s.

NOTE: Height dependent rating*

Difficulty of this climb can feel significantly harder than nearby 5.9’s in the crux areas, especially for climbers 5’5” and under.

Plenty of features below, effortless clips, perhaps 5.7/8 in the beginning. Then starkly contrasted with slabby, no-hands, vertical moves more indicative of its rating at 8th and final bolts. Enjoy that left arete at the 9th clip!

* Clipping the last bolt is definitely height dependent in difficulty. Reachy clip away from secure ledge (5’6” ish and up), may require stepping up onto slab with one foot; or move up onto much less secure slabby feet, minimal hands, then clip left (5’5” and under). Moves to the ledge are secure and traverse Right, but set up for a big potential angled fall which makes the clip much headier, especially for the 5'5" beta. Unless you're into that kind of thing, consider using a draw with a long stiff sling to increase reach, or use a nut tool to steady the draw and increase your reach.

The trade off for the sketchy short-person clip is that it protects quite well at the final moves which are the thinnest. Hands are virtually insignificant here.

NOTE: Final move

There is not a jug or more secure stance if you climb higher than the slabby feet just before the anchor. Work feet high (esp short people) on slabby feet and reach the mussy hooks at the anchor. Clip high and the climb is finished.

Avalauncher

Hard Slab

Persistent Weakness

Fire in the Hole

Detonation

Misfire

Gazex

Fire for Effect

Support Your S.A.C.

Live Ordinance

Slabby moves wandering through a variety of cool terrain. Starts going Left, then up a vertical section to low angle slab where the climber will be out of the belayers sight. Final moves are protected by a high bolt that is a bit reachy, out of reach for some one 5 feet "tall." If necessary you can go Right up 5th class slab and use the anchor for Support Your S.A.C. to finish.

5.8 slab. Arguably harder, especially at the beginning. Smearing intensive climb with very few hand holds. Trust those shoes! Eases up for a bit after the 2nd or 3rd clip.

Leaving a few draws in as directionals for a toprope climber to follow doesn't seem to be necessary. If you use directionals, consider using only a few to reduce difficulty while pulling the rope or belaying due to rope drag.

Description

Protection

Routes in Guntower Wall