Two difficult slab / face cruxes are found on this climb. The first crux comes after the second bolt and the second crux is encountered between the 5th and 6th bolts on the rounded arete. A moderate runout exists between the 7th and 8th bolts.

Desert Profit

Queen Crimson

Like My Lump

Nerve Storm

Get Off My Sister

Walt's Solo

Hollowed Ground

Manwich Queen

Software Sluts

Manwich Queen acends a blunt arete on the right side of the Dome.  Boulder hop from the right to gain the base of the route.  This is a continuous slab route, with ground fall potential before the second bolt.  The crux comes after the third bolt with multiple moves on perfect low angle patina.

The bolts could possibly be supplemented with large gear to the right, but this would change the natural line of the route.

Thsi climb begins in a thin finger crack that gradually enlarges to hands. The crux is low and protects well. Even though the climbing is over soon, the rock is good and movement thoughtful.

On the left side of the dome is a blunt arete with a crack line on the left side ( Nerve Damage ) and this route starting higher on the right.  Climb average quality crack up until it thins.  Slab climb up and left to a bolt.  Multiple exits present themselves.  In any case, multiple 10- slab moves will take you past the bolt to the top.  A fall above the bolt would be unfortunate.  This is an exciting slab climb with a so-so crack start.

Some routes in J-Tree are undeniable sandbags. Nerve Storm, rated 11c in the '92 guidebook, is  one such route. I thought this route was significantly more difficult than Hidden Arch (11d); a similar climb. Begin left of Like My Lump in a very thin crack. Bouldery moves gain a stance where a prominent bulge exists. Very strenuous placements of tiny cams / stoppers protect very difficult moves (crux) over the bulge and into a left slanting steep dihedral where the crack widens to hands. Sustained moves (10+) to the crack's end lead to a steep face (10+ / 11-) and eventually one bolt (somewhat runout to the bolt). Slab climbing past the bolt leads to the top.

This route is located above Nerve Storm (5.11c Vogel P. 428). It is a thin crack with 2 bolts on the left side of a formation. There is an unfinished "project" to it's right on the front of this formation (one bolt?).

This route follows a thin crack on a buttress, and requires more balance than strength.

Located on a north west face on the right side of the Queen Crimson group.  Third class up to the base of the route from the right.  A balancy move is required to clip the first bolt.  The slabby crux comes soon afterward.  After that, it's edges and flakes to the top.  Some of the bigger features are loose and hollow, but this is a well protected, fun, sport climb in Josh.

Start up a crack that thins with a fixed pin near it's end, make a hard move to gain a bolt, make another hard move to gain the last bolt and then run it way out to the anchors on top.

Good slab climbing on this but the bolts need upgrading and even then you had better be solid on the runout. One star out of five.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Queen Crimson Dome