Start on the left side of the face near the ledgy/broken corner. Climb lower face trending slightly right to second bolt at small roof. Pull the roof, then continue through slabby upper face to chains.

Odorous Whim

Low Fat Turkey Dog

A Rockwork Orange

The Barborist

Kyle's 12

War Pigs

High Wire

Moses

The Tempest

Uncontrollable Desire

Dymaxion

11th Commandment

The Englishman

A Barbie from Arby's

Off The Rails

Relativity

Fire Drill

The Apiary

The Full Monty

Iron Monger

The Arborist

The Brik

Hilti Traverse

Botulism

Hoodwink

Pressure Drop

The Cowboy Ejector Seat

The Corner

Razorback

Town Pump

Deep Fried Twinkies

Tsunami

A great line that starts in a overhanging corner system and then pulls left in overhanging terrain through crimpy and dynamic moves. A good rest can be had by stepping right out of the corner to the large ledge, but this may be cheating. The line may be rated 12c/d if you don't stem to the wall on your right.

A very thin and technical face, interesting and exciting climbing that can feel a little insecure. A Classic line that can take a little thought to work through.

Walks a fine line of being a squeeze, but with unique, independent  and high quality climbing, the Barborits is well worth doing.

Get a mediocre rest after the first crux of the BRIK and traverse right on small edges to the first bolt of the Barborist. Crank the fun, sequential and hard crux that culminates  with a big toss to a jug.  Continue on relatively moderate climbing to the steep pumpy upper crux (mid 12) with powerful side pulls and desperate last moves.  Mantle ledge and clip a shared anchor with The Arborist.

A thin line that ascends the right side of the large orange face at the top of the wall. vertical and very crimpy. Belay anchors located at the bottom of the climb.

A fair route with bouldery movement. This route starts hard with an early crux then eases up from there. Finish on the face at a chain anchor. Good quality rock with some great exposure, awkward and technical climbing!

High Wire is the crack line just left of Town Pump. Heads up face and bolts, then up corner to top.

Climb up the face and pull the roof, continue on upper face through two bolts to the anchors, which are a little on the right.

A very long and sustained route, no gimme for the grade. Pull the first bulge to a good rest under the roof, then step left using the finger crack in the roof to continue up the face. Pull through multiple cruxes, with another small roof towards the very top. Well protected and very fun. A 70m is a must to TR, or bring two 60 m ropes and rappel off.

This is a mixed line that starts just to the left of The Tempest. Pull up the face to clip a pin, then continue through a bolt and up the face trending left. Belay at the top on gear, it may also be possible to access the anchors for The Tempest.

Dymaxion is characterized by steep, pumpy climbing with big moves between big holds. From the belay bolt, make fun exposed moves traversing up and right through the first roof on surprisingly large holds. Doing the thinnest moves on the route, pull up onto the face and continue on spaced jugs through the next roof and pump your way to the anchors...

One of the most trafficked climbs in the canyon, among the few 10's on the buttress. Climb blocky start to high first bolt, and then up through white crystally rock. Careful of the greasy holds below the first bolt.

Start up Relativity and after the first roof where Rel. goes up and left, continue up and right slapping pinches and slopers with wild footwork through a V7/8 crux and finish up at the chains for Low Fat Turkey Dog.

Strong boulderer? Get on this one.

Climb through the crux of the Aborist and traverse left to the rest on the Barborist. Recover what you can and send it through the second crux of the Barborist.

Combines what I think are the two best crux sequences that I've climbed in Kootenai.

This aesthetic, steep, power-endurance test piece could be a classic anywhere - wickedly good!

O.T.R. starts with a steep, powerful bouldery crux, then trends up and left with sustained pumpy climbing on excellent rock, utilizing crimps, slopers, jugs, heal hooks and heel-toe cams...  A cruxy section gets you below the large roof and into a strenuous kneebar that sets you up for the unobvious, yet rad crux. Do the last hard moves off heel hooks and slopers, then continue up on big holds and steep rock to the chains.

After the initial slab, climb sustained ground  through the roof and trend left following the bolts up the natural weakness(power endurance crimping). A series of dynamic moves followed by a short mellow section, with a potential chance to recover, brings you to a fun V5/6 boulder problem finish to the chains.

A varied and tricky climb, invokes some thoughtful climbing. A bit pumpy while you try and find your way. Follow the bolt line, which diverts from the prominent weakness a bit.

Climb black water streak to a great rest, crank through an interesting sequence through the roof, and  make a powerful deadpoint to a jug. Gather yourself and climb steep jugs to chains. Often a crack below the roof seeps in the winter and spring.

While this route offers some high quality climbing, it is really more of a direct extension of "Hilti" into the upper crux of "Relativity". Begin by making some powerful pulls between relatively good holds through the "Hilti" roof to reach a good rest. From here, continue up through sustained, and at times sequential, 5.11+ climbing on slopers, pinches, crimps, gastons, and underclings to another good rest where the route connects with "Relativity" as it angles in from the right. Take a moment to relax and enjoy the view while you shakeout before punching it through the short, but tricky, final boulder problem guarding the chains.

Long and varied climb, goes to the top of the cliffband. Be prepared for a little route finding (not too bad), building an anchor, and a walkoff. This route can also be used to access a Rockwork Orange and Kyle's 12.

One of the hardest climbs at Kootenai, goes through the steepest and thinnest terrain on the first buttress. Sustained hard moves through multiple roofs.

Sustained 12 climbing with a high crux. Very clean crimping after pulling a tricky roof.

This line is just left of Hilti. Starts up the slab and then through the roof to a corner. From the corner, pull the arete and continue to anchors.

A slightly overhanging start leads to a short but powerful crux to reach the upper slab. Fun moves through a small roof.

Climb up runout 5.7 to a bolt, this is where the real climbing begins. Climb the arcing dihedral to awkward leaning rails then pull the crux through the v-notched roof. A few more moderate moves will bring you to the anchors in an alcove.

Definition of Hoodwinked: to be deceived or tricked...

The route starts off with an isolated V4/5 boulder problem that brings you to a no hands rest below the first perma-draw. 5.12 climbing brings you to a rest before a sustained and thought provoking V7 boulder problem all the way to the anchors. This route = power-endurance.

The 7th bolt is more of a "project bolt". It serves more as a way to suss out the boulder problem so as not to take a bajillion whips while figuring it out. It is a hard draw to clip on the go and creates some unecessary rope drag.

The

Cowboy Ejector Seat

climbs the overhang in the middle of the first buttress.

Lower angled corner that trends right toward the big orange face. Fun climbing with good gear, some loose rock, but not to bad. Can be used to access A Rockwork Orange or Kyle's 12.

This route starts up a long slab then starts up the face right of the large arete. Pull through some great face climbing to gain a ledge. From here do an airy and awesome traverse to gain the arete proper and continue to chains.

Route follows a corner and then pulls a bulge at the top for the crux. Somewhat of a one move wonder. Can be TR'd by climbing the easy crack around to the left.

After climbing through the beginning of LFTD, climb up and right through steep rock and over the bulge to a rest. Recover and continue through some more steep climbing to another rest. Decipher the sequence through the headwall and you've done it! Rope drag can be a sorta bad at the top if you don't extend some draws lower down. If you want, use a long draw on the last bolt of Low Fat Turkey Dogs right before the permadraw and extend the next two draws just past the permadraw. Enjoy!

A full value extension to Low Fat Turkey Dog.

Clip L.F.T.D. anchor, shake out the pump if you can, move out left, clip bolt and punch it through the awesome crux to some easier ground before the head wall. From here, two options exist using the same bolt line: either move left and climb the tricky arete (5.11+, keeping the grade at 12d), or move right onto the amazing and hard face crux (5.13a).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in First Buttress