This is the old approach pitch for the Left and Right Deals. Avoid it in favor of A Better Deal. However, you insist.......

Look for some bolts on the gray slab (drilled on lead and not optimally placed). Climb up and left following the bolts. Mantle and start a long unprotected traverse right with lots of rope drag.

The goal is to gain the top of a block below the alcove that contains the Left and Right Deals. There are two options:

1) grunge up the rotten OW that forms the left edge of the block (poor pro, don't fall)

or

2) continue traversing and climb the dirty dihedral that forms the right edge of the block, passing a small tree (the rope drag is nearly insurmountable)

The Raw Deal

Rigel's Wall

Jaccard Hand-O-Lin

The Right Deal

A Better Deal

Restoration of American Liberty

One Messiah

The Brutal Edge

The Left Deal

Route starts as a low angle dirty approach pitch that ends at a brushy ledge (5.10). Second pitch is a clean, steep, and attractive crack with bolt anchor (5.11). However, it is fist size that widens to OW (perhaps can be done by layback).

Pitch 1 (The Flake, 50 feet)

Stick clip the bolt and mantle. Climb a flake crack, then a short flare. Belay at a two bolt belay under a flaring roof. 5.10

Pitch 2 (Falling Petal, 75 feet))

Chimney up to the roof. Exit via a hand crack. Continue up the crack to a belay ledge with bush and two bolt station. 5.10

Pitch 3 (The Chimney, 50 feet)

Walk a few feet inside a clean and classic chimney. Climb the chimney, following a thin crack for pro. Make a couple of mantles that end at a two bolt station. 5.8

Pitch 4 (Freight Train Flare, 75 feet))

Stem up and past the roof using the wide-hands crack. Continue up the overhanging flare on perfect rock (crux). The angle and climbing ease as the rock becomes sandy near the two bolt anchor. 5.10+

Pitch 5 (Optional Scramble, 30 feet)

It is a short scramble to either the top of the cliff or a ledge overlooking the canyon (belay recommended). Downclimb back to the anchor atop pitch 4.

Descent

One 60m rope will get you down. Rappel each of pitches 4 and 3. Walk back to the anchor atop pitch 2. Rappel straight down to a lower ledge with large bush and two bolt station. Rappel from here to the ground.

This route is a bit of Indian Creek transplanted to Spring Creek Canyon.

From the lower belay, ascend into the alcove. Climb the flared left side up to a small roof. Place a large cam as high as possible and traverse across to the right crack (a wild and crazy move) which is jammed to a bolted anchor above.

This is now the preferred approach pitch to The Left Deal and The Right Deal. There is a 5.11c one-move-wonder at the 6th (final) bolt that can easily be done A0 by pulling on the quickdraw, in which case the rating is reduced to 5.8 A0.

Corner Splitter crack.  mostly hand jams. Two off width sections. Theres one bolt at the top, could be re-inforced with another for the decent.  There is a variation which takes you higher to a second bolt to lower off of and the crack gets thinner.

Overall rating is III 5.11 or 5.9 A0.

P1: The initial move is 5.11 (free) or A0 (yarding on some cams) which gains a wide crack followed by a short chimney and another wide crack (5.8 or 5.9). Belay at a two bolt station (which needs new webbing or chains). 100 feet

P2: Climb the 5.9 crack to the right of the anchors which changes to a chimney. 100 feet

P3: A short 5.5 pitch leads to a large ledge with trees for belay. 50 feet

P4: The hand crack continues at 5.8 and ends on another ledge. 100 feet

P5: This pitch climbs on the nose of the point, fun 5.7 slab and incipient cracks. 70 feet

P6: Climbs more crack to the POINT, or opt for the slab variation at 5.7. 70 feet

Somewhat reminiscent of Wheat Thin in Yosemite, this route liebacks and jams a thin flake that appears to be merely resting on a ledge due to gravity only. The OW crack formed by the flake was deemed too precarious for cams and has five bolts drilled into the main wall in addition to the chain anchors. Don't pull too hard while liebacking the flake!

(FFA by Chris Heideman)

From the anchor under the alcove, climb the left side past the small roof (big hands) up to the two bolt belay stance (widens to OW but the sharp edge of the crack is also conducive to liebacking).

Description

Protection

Routes in Spring Creek