There are two starts to the climb - 1) climb the seam directly with no protection, or 2) climb past a bolt just right of the seam. Either way thin and delicate slab moves gain a stance where you can get some gear in. From here lieback and jam up a thin crack (crux) to a horizontal, after which the crack widens and enjoyable jamming past a steep bulge leads to the top. Descend by walking down the south shoulder (climber's right).

A true Josh classic with varied, interesting moves up a clean face.

This is one of the climbs that John Bachar used to routinely solo back in the late 70's/early 80's. Other routes regularly soloed were

Left Ski Track

(5.11a),

More Monkey than Funky

(5.11b) and

Spider Line

(5.11d).

Hot Rocks

Kelvin and Hobbes

Ipecac

Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs)

Gem Nabors

Looney Tunes

Absolute Zero

Wayne's New Tones

Less than Zero

Rankine File

Doing That Scrapyard Thing

Nereltne

Climbs thin, technical face past bolts and several horizontals which offer protection, and while well protected this is not a sport route.

Gear belay and walk off down slabs on the south face.

An excellent face climb that will keep you on your toes with it's thin crimping and balance moves up a smooth looking face. Great climbing and a must do for the grade.

Start up and left of the base of the gully that accesses

Nereltne

. This spot can be reached by going up and left on boulders from

Absolute Zero

or by walking up to a terrace from the north side of the rock formation (going by the base of

Doing That Scrapyard Thing

).

Climb the slightly right-curving chimney to the platform and bolt anchor atop

Nereltne

and

Less Than

Zero

.

This route is pretty good and for some reason has a sort of internet driven mystique about it.... highly recommended.  Wide section is physical, and leaning, and will be the hardest 16 feet of climbing you will do all day.  The crux is the thin top out to the OW that ends abruptly when your feet swing around the corner and land on a sidewalk.  Be sure to protect the follower with a 1" cam or similar that you can place after the crux.  Without this, the follower will for sure clang pretty heavy into two ledge systems and plenty of toothy monzonite.  Ugly!

This route is located on west side of the small formation south of Rock Hudson and is nothing more than an addendum to that formation. In Bartlett, it is called Hudson Rock. Vogel doesn't have it listed. At one time there were two bolts. I speculate that it was put up during the piton era since protecting it with pins would have been problematic. The bolts were old and either sheared or were chopped- probably chopped. Protection is quite good with modern pro. Climb the obvious right leading crack to the right of the prominent overhang where another route with two bolts is apparent.I found this route to be great fun and deserving of two stars. The rock in the start of the crack is a bit tired so backing it up might be prudent.Downclimb south on easy terrain.

Follow a climber's trail, from the front loop of Hidden Valley Campground to this rock, passing along the west side of Outhouse Rock. This climb is the obvious widening crack left of center on the west face.

Climb the crack which widens through a variety of sizes, becoming a chimney near the top. Belay on top and walk off down slabs on the south face.

A good exercise of climbing different sized cracks. The top wide section is not as bad as it looks and is made more secure by staying to the back of the crack.

This climb is the left-most line of bolts on Rock Hudson's E Face. This line is left of Looney Tunes and Right of the Start of Nerelente.  Climb up a steepening slab on prgressively harder moves to reach a disgustingly thin crux stepping left up onto a lower angle slab.  From there you can proceed to climb up the Left facing corner above (hand-to-fist gear or just run it out) or up the face to the left (crumbling, TR it) either of which is OK.

The crux move felt like 5.11a to me (harder than The Vampire (10d) or British Airways (11a), more like Buford's House Of Liver (11a) Then again I am not a good friction climber. This also felt harder than Hot Rocks (11c)... but that's another story.

Start roughly 150 feet to the right of

Hot Rocks

, on a smaller formation that sits slightly in front of the main cliff. You will likely pass by this face as you approach Rock Hudson heading for

Hot Rocks

or

Looney Tunes

. Just right of this line is a right-slanting crack/corner system, the line of

Gem Nabors

.

Climb up past a large flake to a stance with a bolt. Go up past a second bolt, then trend slightly up and left to a short crack and the top.

Descend down and left on a ramp, tunneling under a boulder near the bottom.

Good climb on TR.  Some of the rock and moves feel like Loose lady although a lot shorter route.  Original rating was 5.8 in Vogel West book but seems some stuff has broken off now feels like a 9

Start on the terrace on the west end of the Rock Hudson formation. This terrace is most easily reached by walking up and right on ledges starting on the northwest side of the formation (going up by the base of

Doing That Scrapyard Thing

). This route starts in a chimney that is about 20 feet down and left of the start of

Kelvin and Hobbes

. The chimney is formed by the main cliff on the right and a huge boulder on the left.

Move left (north) into the chimney on top of some chockstones to gain a hand crack. Climb up the left-leaning hand crack to a horizontal, then step right to a finger crack. Follow this finger and narrow hand crack up to a horizontal. Move right and around the corner in the horizontal crack to the platform above

Kelvin and Hobbes

,

Less Than Zero

and

Nereltne

.

Note: the 5.7 grade is given for stemming with your left foot off the chimney to the left of the finger crack. If you climb the finger crack keeping both feet on the main wall, the route is much harder.

Start on the northwest corner of Rock Hudson in an alcove made up of the main cliff and a huge boulder. Around right (west) is a large, sunny terrace that can provide access to

Kelvin and Hobbes

and

Rankine File

. This route is almost always shaded.

Starting at the base of a chimney formed by the main cliff and a huge boulder, climb a small left-facing corner system past horizontals. Finish up a thin, slightly left-leaning finger crack.

At the left edge of the south face of Rock Hudson, a gully angles 45deg up & right to the base of a short dihedral: this is Nereltne.If this short, steep climb was a full pitch it would be awesome. Pretty easy, and a safe lead, as the wide crack in the corner eats up big cams the whole way. Two bolt rap anchor on top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Rock Hudson