Climb a blocky dyke with three bolts up to a crack and step right onto a ledge. Belay with gear here or step up to the next ledge with belay bolts. The first clip is a bouldery 15' up. Variation: continue on the dyke past one more bolt to the top. Decent: rap the route (this is the main descent from the summit of North Breezeway Dome).

Vertical Valium

Respectfully Cavaliered

Last Call

Highlander Roof

My Ex

Scurvy by Nature

Three Dicks in the Wilderness

Johnny Went Home

Luckily Irish

Freddie Went Off the Rails

Dustin the Wind

Jim-Bob

Same start as Dustin the Wind. Face climb past a bolt to a small stance with TCU placements then up the shallow outside corner past more bolts to a crack. Continue up and right past the crack to a seam below a dyke, then follow the dyke through the head wall. Bring a #2 or #3 cam to protect the last moves or run it out to a two bolt belay. To descend, go to the rap station on the west side at the top of Vertical Valium then follow the Breezeway back to the base.

Start as for Freddie Went Off the Rails, after a few feet, angle up and right past two bolts to the next small crack. Follow this crack to the top, belay with gear. To descend, go to the rap station on the west side at the top of Vertical Valium then follow the Breezeway back to the base.

P1 Face climb past four bolts to a small, lower angle, left-facing dihedral. The top of the dihedral turns into a small slot, climb through this and onto a nice ledge with belay bolts. 5.9, 100'   P2 At the back of the ledge, climb the wide crack past a 3/8" rivet through the roof and then up 15' of easier terrain to the top. Belay with gear. 5.8, 30'   Both pitches can easily be combined.

Climb a small dyke until it ends then friction right, past the large dyke, and finish on the left of two right leaning cracks. Belay with gear or go a few more feet to the belay/rappel station on Three Dicks on a Dyke.

Stand up past a horizontal crack to a bolt to another horizontal crack to another bolt to the top. Belay with gear on this ledge or place a directional and go one more step up to belay at the anchors of Vertical Valium. Rappel from here.

Climb past two bolts (crux) onto a shallow ramp for a couple of feet then up the dyke past three more bolts and some TCU placements. Belay from two bolts and rap the route to descend.

Four bolts protect the face, 5.9, up to a tiny dihedral that leads to the ledge at the top of the first pitch of Highlander Roof. Continue on Highlander Roof through the wide crack, 5.8, to the top of the dome. Belay with gear. To descend, 1) go 40' to the north end of the dome and rappel from the belay station of Three Dicks on a Dyke back down the east side (you might need a leaver sling), or 2) go to the rap station on the west side at the top of Vertical Valium then follow the Breezeway back to the base.

Climb easy face to a bulge 20' off the ground. Balance over the bulge (crux) then up more easy face to finish on discontinuous right leaning cracks on the head wall. Belay with gear. To descend, go to the rap station on the west side at the top of Vertical Valium then follow the Breezeway back to the base.

Climb a left leaning low-angle crack until it ends. Leave the crack (and the last opportunity for pro) and continue left on easy slab to the shoulder, then straight up the last bouldery move to the top. Belay with gear. To descend, go to the rap station on the west side at the top of Vertical Valium then follow the Breezeway back to the base.

Face climb straight up to the shallow "buttress" just right of the Flaky Factions dihedral, through a short section of crack, then up the left corner of the head wall. Belay with gear or leave directional and go a few feet back onto the ledge to a couple of wide spaced belay bolts. To descend, go to the rap station on the west side at the top of Vertical Valium then follow the Breezeway back to the base.

Climb the discontinuous crack in a shallow dihedral. Start from the sloper ledge accessed from the east end of the Breezeway or make the first few moves, 5.9, of Dustin the Wind from the very bottom of the cliff. To descend, go to the rap station on the west side at the top of Vertical Valium then follow the Breezeway back to the base.

North Breezeway Dome is the center of the three big domes, has the highest concentration of clean rock, and forms the north side of The Breezeway. The obscure tower sprouting from the east face is Hawk Rock. There're two rappel stations, one on the northeast corner and one on the southwest. A third set of anchors is over the tallest part (130') of the east face but is too far back for lowering or pulling a rope. The oldest rappel anchor is a single 1/4" star dryven bolt with a rusted Leeper hanger by the northwest corner. Most of the climbs top out near one of the anchors but a couple will need gear.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North Breezeway Dome