Move up and left from the top of In Lightning. Continuously overhanging. Short, but sweet!

Lights Out

Druid Dynamics

Multi roof ????

Admiral Throckmorton

The Grips of Wrath

Of Mice and Men

Rupley's Believe It Or Not

Lord Fowelsbain

The Paganizer

No Name

Corporal Punishment

Lights Out At Ten  Candles Out At Eleven

Jack the Slipper

Bron- yr-aur

Druid Roof

In Lightning

A short fun sport route on the righthand side of the druid. 

  Thin face moves get you to a fun roof (crux) then easy face to the chains. 

  See "Squeezing the Lemmon II" for a topo and more info.

 Two or three pitches. 1) Start in a small alcove at left end of low roof system. Step left for an easy move to a ledge, clip the second bolt and work right on handrail and up. You can go straight up or left but right leads you to the next bolt and is the easiest. Angle up and right on much easier well featured stone to the big ledge and anchors. Take a rack of singles if you want to climb the upper crack. You can also lower off from the anchors so you partner can also lead the route. This route may climb the first 5.9R section of the first pitch of Equinox. Having talked with Steve Grossman he agreed that bolting this didn't diminish his accomplishment. (Steve soloed 9s all of the time) By letting me add a few bolts we have created a nice approach pitch to the unique second pitch. If 10+ is your limit it might be nice to do it as two pitches. If done with long runners in a couple of spots it makes a great long pitch. Lower off from the anchors with a 70M just gets you to the ground. [B,C] (EFR,JBec,'21)

 

Starts by third classing (no pro) up to two bolt anchor.  Use a long sling and then follow bolts up and over a number of roofs.  Much easier on the second run as key holds are hard to find from below the roof at the crux.

Easy to find - look for the cold shuts.  Follow the shuts mostly straight up to the chains, with occasional detours (mostly to the right) to find the best holds.  If you have read the description in the guidebook, you can tell this route has seen a lot of controversy.  It intersects another less direct route (Of Mice and Men), which led to it being chopped shortly after it was put up.  In the guidebook, it is listed as "Gripes of Wrath", but that is NOT its name.  Climb them both and make up your own mind.

Starts left of the direct start on Grips of Wrath -- up to a large flake that will take gear.  This wandering route follows the holds and available gear placements, first to the left, then way out to the right and finally back up left to the chains.  Skip clipping the shuts to experience the route like the FA party did, but beware -- there are some major runouts which, combined with the wandering nature of the route could lead to a major whipper, or even a groundfall.  See the description for Grips of Wrath for some history.

This is the easiest route on the Druid, at the far left end of the cliff. 

  From the ground, climb up and right over easy terrain, heading for a large cleft/chimney in the rock. 

  Clip single bolt (?) and continue up through this cleft/chimney.  Low angle and easy climbing, but watch for loose rock. 

  Top out and walk off.

Pretty sweet climb, but they skimped on the steel.  There are some runouts on not-so-easy terrain--it adds to the fun.  Full variety pack: thin, sustained, burly, tricky, spicy.  Good fun all around.  Squeezing the Lemmon says "getting to bolt 6 takes some maneuvering".  There are actually only five bolts on this route, and it's number five that is trickiest to get.  First bolt is quite a ways up.

While technically a mixture of two lines, Jack The Slipper and the sport variation of The Pagan, this route makes for a pleasant clip-up. 

  Climb Jack The Slipper to the chains.  Instead of lowering clip a shoulder length sling to the right chain and move right under the roof.  This is the sport variation of The Pagan.  Clip a half-yanked bolt that spins (as of June 2012) and pull the roof.  Continue straight up moderate jugs to the anchors. 

  Since the climbing is 5.9 other than the roof, which is 5.11, the line is not consistent at the grade.  It is consistent in quality however.

Jam your way through the initial wide crack to a good rest on a large block (if anyone has a car jack handy, this block should be removed).  Follow the main short crack to several hand jams through an overhanging crack pulling over onto a sloping ledger(i thought this was the crux). Follow the arete onto moderate slab climbing with two bolts (somewhat widely spaced but if you did the beginning, you can do this).  Clip the chains and lower off.

Goes up the left side of the same roof as Admiral Throckmorton.

Another engaging, slightly meandering clip-up similar to the nearby routes. 

  This route has a sordid history.  My understanding, which may be wrong, is that this line crosses Mike Argueso's Thing, a bold traditional route climbed prior by Mike Argueso and Rick Donnelly.  Mike Strassman and Mark Colby unknowingly bolted over this route to create Lights Out At Ten; Candles Out At Eleven.  Rick Donnelly chopped the route.  Ben Burnham and Vincent Greene rebolted the route but lowered the anchors.  The route may continue on the old bolts past the anchors.

Look for a bolted route just to the right of a large  obvious roof.  Pitch 1: The first bolt is pretty far up on easy climbing.  Follow the bolts moving left or right (mostly) for the best holds.  The crux is between the last bolt and the chains, and is well protected by the bolt.  Someone else will need to fill in details on pitch 2.

pitch 1, 140' steep climbing up a great long face with one 5.10+ move, but multiple mini cruxes through overlaps protected by one bolt, RP's, stoppers, and small cams. It was once one of the best routes on Mt Lemmon. Now obscured by a number of bolted routes, if the original line is followed it is a great accomplishment. pitch 2, 60'(+). Awkward moves off the belay into a hanging corner (5.9PG/R?) with solid stemming lead to bolt and hard moves (5.10+) to summit.

Follow the thin hairline cracks diagonally through the roof placing gear as often as possible(i think this could go clean with a lot of cam hooks and a very experienced second but i tried some knife blades)sling the chicken head at the lip and hook your way up to the shallow cracks.  At this point it makes sense to build either a trad anchor (the gear is not very good), or traverse up and left(placing gear and clipping a couple bolts on the way) to where you can hop onto the ground and sling a tree.  I thought about drilling an anchor right above the roof (a bolt or two would also be nice to avoid using the sketch gear and the hooks) but i did not want to step on anyone's toes.  If an anchor was drilled there would be the option of finishing on the long (hard?) overhanging sport route, or the old rupley route on this side of the cliff making a very fun, be it intense, two pitch climb.

Following James DeRoussel's description for the crag, In Lightning will be one of the first routes you encounter. Look for the continuous bolt line that ends about 120' up the crag; it lies immediately to the left of two other bolted lines that have their anchors halfway up.  

  Follow the bolts to the two-bolt anchor. For the second pitch, it is wise to move the belay 40' to the large, flat ledge to the right. The moves to the ledge are unprotected Class 4. The ledge is devoid of anchors, so it's a good idea for the leader to clip the second pitch's first bolt to provide a belay. Once everyone's on the ledge, follow the bolts above the short difficulties and then run it out 50' over easy 5th class to the top of the crag. Don't fall up here. You can plug in some medium cams and slot some nuts for an anchor, or just wrap some boulders with webbing. 

  If you climb this in Monsoon season, chances are the route's name will hold special significance for you. Keep your eye on the clouds.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in West Face