Varied physical climbing that sees few ascents.

Zippin' Your Shin Skin

Girls with Chim(n)ay

Lively Up Yourself

The Gods Must Be Angry

Underground Up

Shasta

Rodeo Crack

Great Googlie Moogli

Desperado

Plumbline

Route 66

The Northern Throne

Craig Luebben Memorial

Ol' Dirty Bastard

Bedside Manner

The Beer Float

The Wiggle Room

T-Handles

Talkin' It Clean

Ninjinski

Mr. Green Jeans

Usual Suspects

Where's Noah Vibbert

Unknown Moderate

Anorexic Doughboy

Sleepy Hallow

Salad Daze

Twin cracks pinching off to a funky crux at the top.  The Wenger guide gives it 5.10+, so clearly, I disagree, but you should go see for yourself.

Go in, yes in, the chimney. It's secure and interesting climbing with good gear in the inside cracks. But if you don't want to be in there forever, at some point you need to get out...

The first 20' consist of a couple moves on good fingerlocks off the deck to a brief crux of rattly fingers to thin hands.  After the crack opens up to hands, the angle kicks back and you can enjoy a low-angle, upside-down version of Gold Rush to a sling anchor on the left.

Scramble up a pillar at the start. Harder moves at the start are followed by better holds and jams   on this  double-crack route.  The anchor is to the left. 

As the name suggests, you can actually descend 15 or 20 feet at the base of this route to get the very most out of the line. Like its neighbors, enjoy great low angle jamming and stem work.

Despite its wide appearance, Shasta is one of the best moderate routes at the crag. Head straight up two wide cracks enjoying varied movement throughout and excellent rests at the various horizontal breaks along the way.

Rodeo Crack launches into offwidth from the very start.  Begin with some heel-toe trickery and arm bars in a 5' section.  Progress through a long 4' section and another 5' section before the offwidth climbing is over.  The route turns into perfect hands and finishes in 5.8 territory. Shares anchors with Salad Daze and Bedside Manners

Stemming between two columns. Take the roof to the left side. Roof is crux. Another ten feet past the roof are bolt anchors on the right.

This was one of the northern end's final "potential" lines listed in the last edition of Wenger's guide. The neighboring lines to the right and left had also been "potential" but were also plucked recently. In keeping with the area's tradition, this was led on-sight ground up.   The bottom half of the pitch is great 5.9 hands and fingers to a small shelf on the column face to the left. From there, make progressively harder moves up the tightening fingercrack until it pinches down for a bit, forcing some creative stemming and crimping to a small upper shelf. Continue a short ways on good fingers to a set of anchors recently installed by Jeff Wenger. A great outing-harder than most of the north side climbs and pretty lichen-free.

Double cracks: fingers to hands on the right, 7' off-width on the left. Climbed this way it is 5.9. If you only use the right crack, then it's 5.10-. The left OW climbed by itself felt 5.10- as well.

This is the best line on The Prow. A thin crack at the bottom with some stemming. After about 25 feet the rock leans back for easier climbing. Once one gets above the columns (~50'), the route becomes a bit more jumbled but everything is solid. Avoid obvious loose chunks. 

Start The Wiggle Room and traverse left on the wide crack up onto the ledge.  From there you look up at a gorgeous fists to hands crack that leads you to the anchors for wiggle room.  A fantastic warm up to get you ready for the stout hand cracks on the main wall.

Low-angle wide climbing/column hugging to a scrambley finish.

From the guide: "A fun, Moderate crack suddenly turns into a thin little bastard. Expect problematic stemming above small gear placements. Despite the name, the route is reasonably clean and despite the grade, it shuts most people down." 

  You can place wires high for the crux, I felt like I was on a top rope through the business of it.

Start to the left of the Salad Daze hand crack on a thin finger crack.  This bouldery start requires a few physical moves before protection is available.  The climb works from hands to fists to a lie back edge in the offwidth pod back to fists. The crack tapers down to .5 C4's at the top. Climb between two blocks on jugs. Stand on the left block to clip the anchors.  

  Bedside Manner,Salad Daze and Rodeo Crack share anchors.

The Beer Float climbs a wavy crack above a 4 foot block.  The crux is thin fingers 20 feet off the deck. The 4 inch crack is difficult to protect in the wide section halfway up.

This North Wall beauty is located to the right of Takin' It Clean. Protect the first step with a number four and utilize a perfect hand crack (right) to reach a ledge.  Climb hands, thin hands and finger locks to a horizontal hand traverse.

Climb a sustained thin hand crack as it narrows to fingers. Enjoy a rest before fun finishing moves. The relatively clean rock, for the Northern End, make this a great route that's well worth it.  

Ring locks on great low angle climbing. Enjoy quality climbing all the way to the rim. Currently dirty up top, but well worth the effort. Be very careful of loose rock toward the top and save gear for an anchor

Mr Green Jeans follows a slowly widening crack in a corner system formed by two adjacent pillars. Fairly decent jams and hidden away options make for a modest intro to wide climbing at Trout. A great precursor to its neighbor, Rodeo Crack. Shares anchors w/ Great Googlie Moogli.

"Trout's most popular moderate. Look for a strangely placed hand crack starting off a horizontal low on the route. You'll know it when you see it. Classic!" - Jeff Wenger's Trout Creek Climbing Guide

Thin hand jams turn to locks as the angle eases slightly.  Just as the crack pinches closed, move right into the last few feet of Rodeo Crack and clip  the common anchor.

This may fall under "Northern End Moderates" in the Rakkup guide, but I think it's worth pulling out and mentioning here! To the left of Route 66, around the two bulging columns, is a nice stem box with thin seams on either side and some horizontal breaks on the middle column. Climb up the steeper section, then move in to the left crack when it goes much less than vertical for some awesome low angle hand and foot jamming.

This is an enjoyable route and is one of the least sustained routes at Trout Creek.  This makes it a good warm-up, cool-down or first lead at Trout Creek. The left crack is quite small but eats gear and has excellent jams to help with your upward progress. The right crack is offwidth and offset such that it forms a great place to place your back while chimney climbing. The first 50-60 feet can be chimney climbed in this manner, placing pro in the smaller left crack (5.6-5.7). Leave the security of the chimney and transfer to the left crack to harder climbing with good rests up and left to a chain anchor (5.8).

Really fun, secure climbing on somewhat spooky, hollow rock.  Careful what you put your gear behind.  This would be a classic, must-do route if the rock was better quality.

Salad Daze starts just left of a 3 ft pillar. Start with hand crack to a horizontal split that joins a second wide hands crack to the climbers right.  Following these two twin cracks to the bulge, trend left and climb on horizontal jugs between two blocks.  The anchor is accessible once you stand on the block to the left.

The northern end is home to Trout's lower-angled, easier cracks.  This is an excellent place to bring newcomers who aren't going to have fun on 5.10 cracks.

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Location

Protection

Routes in The Northern End