The route name comes from a song from the band Lard. This route is on the left side of the right canyon wall. Start up an easy ramp climbing above the small pool and head straight up to a small roof. Pull the bolt protected crux moves and head up and right to the anchor.

I wanna be a drug sniffing dog

Center Ladder

Millard Crack

From JMC on Supertopo Oct. 07 -"New (relative) bolted line I put up last August, still hasn't gone fully free. 6 or 7 bolts painted grey, straightforward aiding (I think you need to stickclip the first one, or make some hook move to get to it.) The bottom bulge is the crux, I think 5.12ish. The rest of it (from bolt 2) is 5.11, with some good hand jams in the diagonal crack, 2nd crux exiting the crack. Some good climbing, but I could have done a better job on the bolting."

I tried to aid this and got shut down hard. I had to stick clip the first bolt. Then there's a big gap between the 3rd and 4th bolt I could not get past free or aid without a stick clip. The route goes up and right and then cuts back left to merge with the left bolt ladder a few bolts before the anchors.

C2 if aiding or 5.12 if climbing

There used to be a campground host at Millard who was definitely on crack, but not this kind of crack. The route starts on a slab with a kind of high first bolt. Clip the bolt to your left and then follow the crack up while clipping more bolts out to the left. Finish by traversing left to the 3 bolt anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Millard Canyon