One of the best climbs of its grade in Clifton.  Classic face climbing on superb rock. 

  Pitch 1:  Start on the flat, grassy ledge shared with Dazed and Confused moving up and right just below the bushes to gain a crack on the right. Climb crack or face on the right to bolt anchors (50') 

  Pitch 2:  Sustained climbing straight up the knobby, white face past 5 bolts and a Tri-cam placement.  Move left through the brown streaks to a two bolt anchor (140').  Rappel the route or 4th class to the summit.

Overnite Sensation

Snake and Bake

Dazed and Confused

Vacationland

Leading Colors

My Time

The Maine Line

Great runout slab climbing!  Start from the same stack of blocks as Overnight Sensation.  From the stacked boulders, scramble up a small slab, and out to a 20ft long crack.    Follow the crack up and exit left, aiming for the second treeledge.  Pull over a white bulge and take a deep breath.  Pitch 2: From the middle of the tree ledge, climb up the face, clipping one bolt and top out at bolt anchors.

Climb slab left of the corner layback of Ben's Balls passing several bolts through crux. Protection available in flakes and cracks, but avoid snake. Climb straight up to bolted anchor.

High quality slab climb on clean solid rock.  Start as you would for My Time, but break left after 25 ft.  Use knobs to gain the first bolt of Vacationland on the face.  Follow five bolts to rap anchor.  Rap with two ropes, or do optional less classic second pitch.  Rappel with two ropes.

Climb the low overhang which becomes My Time.  Once established on face, follow line of bolts straight up clean slab.  The crux is pulling the bulge near the last bolt.  After last bolt, aim up and right to finish at the Vacationland anchors.  Rap with two ropes.

A Clifton classic! Make time for My Time - especially for the new leader, a really fun climb.P1: Follow the ramp up the corner to its top and more right to a left facing flake. This part is a little run out but just remember, its only 5.5 Layback the flake to a ledge then traverse straight right around bulge (crux) to a pin belay.P2: Move out to the right following the dike on Ben's Balls (remember to protect your second). Just before the pine tree, step up left past a bolt to a two bolt anchor on a ramp.P3: Move slightly left up to pin then trend up and right past three more bolts to a chained bolt anchor. Third class up and left to summit, walk off to trail on the right or rappel with two ropes.[ Edit Note- You might want to read the COMMENTS about P3  before setting out on it. R Hall, Admin. Maine]This route has a lot of potential for practicing rescue techniques due to a solid belay ledge (pitch 2) with a bomber anchor. Have fun on this one, its awesome.

A clean white slab leads to an obvious bulge where technical crimping gets you thru the crux.

The longest and best slab climbs in Clifton are found here.  The main face is bordered on the left by Tower Gully and on the right by a steeper 3rd class gully called Easy Up.  Though brushy, this route does offer an alternative ascent or descent route.  The standard descent takes the more easterly broad gully that borders the right side of the Rabbit Buttress.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Face