This is a link-up of the lower half of

Old Yellar

into the top crux of

The Scoundrel

. This is the better of the 2 link ups, climbing the lower crux of

Old Yellar

and the harder crux of

The Scoundrel

.

Old Scoundrel

Yellar Belly

Old Yellar

The Scoundrel

Long, technical, steep, pumpy -- what more could you ask for?  Old Yellar is a great granite route that's technical down low.  Then, midway up, you enter a vicious undercling to enter the steep second half with a heartbreak crux at the end.  It's well worth the short hike to get up there.

This is a link up of

The Scoundrel

into

Old Yellar

. Climb

The Scoundrel

to the 6th bolt after the undercling traverse, and then climb into the last half of

Old Yellar

at the long draw.

This is the route to the right of

Old Yellar

. It was originally bolted by the legendary Steve Hong and Pat Adams, much thanks!

The route is broken into 3 parts by 2 no hands rests. Once past the hollow and kinda chossy entry climbing, you get to a very techy, 12+ dihedral (I extended the 3rd draw to make it safer to clip). Once past the dihedral, you get to a ledge big enough you can walk around on, have a party, take a nap,

etc.

From here, you have a steep, undercling traverse on good holds eventually pulling a tricky bulge onto a hanging slab and another no hands rest. Finally you have reached the crux, probably a V6 on its own. Very sequential and perplexing, this took me some good sussing to actually figure out a method through the last 2 bolts. The route finishes with a jump to the finish jug on

Old Yellar

, what a stellar last move! It shares an anchor with

Old Yellar

and is a pain to clean while lowering. I would TR back up through the draws.

Overall, the route has subpar rock quality and is broken up by 2 no hands rests, but if you have already done

Old Yellar

, this is definitely worth getting on. It is very different.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Old Yellar Dome