This full-pitch slab route has a short crux section, and then just one other stretch thats harder than 5.8.  The crux is at the third bolt.

Diddly

Faux Pas

Daley's Direct

Climb with no Beginning

Baby's Butt

Right X Crack

Fitschen's Folly

Pas de Deux

Pas de Deux, Original Route

Orange Peel

A very short crux (with the only protection of the climb) takes you up to an easy chute.  Follow it to the top.

Starts in short corner with two bolts with some nice edges, kinda flaky. Gain the slab and clip a good bolt next to a bad one, then up left a bit to a final bolt and a tricky move right. Easy jugs to the top from there.

This climb begins to the left of the Orange Peel route, directly below the Orange Peel flake.   Climb up a crack and face to just below that flake, then traverse 20 feet right.  Either belay here or move up past a bolt (crux) to an uncomfortable stance above.   From here, move up and left to a sloping ramp, along it, and up to the top  no protection on this pitch.

This one-pitch route has sustained thin face climbing with very little protection.

This route is named for Joe Fitschen, who got off route while trying to descend the Friction Route, and fell all the way down this climb. He recovered sufficiently to be part of the team that did the first continuous ascent of The Nose on El Capitan.

The climb starts left of the bottom part of The Friction Route. Look for a short 10 foot vertical wall, split by a finger crack. This is five feet left of a block that is wedged below an overhang. Climb in from the right, go up and left along the finger crack, and continue up on easy ground to the top.

Like many routes on the South Face, Pas De Deux is really only an option when the weather is cooler.   The route starts at a large tree at the "outside" corner right of the Innominate.

Climb cracks to a bulge where a curiously hard mantle leads to the first bolt.  Step left and up a short ramp to the roof.  Pass the roof on large holds moving across the top of the roof before a stop across to the next bolt (protection possible).  Continue on the path of least resistance (up and right), being careful not to miss the oddly placed 4th bolt, which is left of the obvious line.  At the fifth bolt, you can continue to the last bolt on

Pas de Deux, Original Route

, which is visible almost directly up, or move left through one more bolt to the end of the pitch.  There is an obvious belay crack well below the summit. If one is uncomfortable on 3rd/4th class terrain another easy pitch can be done to the top.

This pitch, graded 5.10b or 5.10b/c in versions of the guidebook is very stiff for that grade.  The mantle alone may price it out of that range and there is sustained slab climbing throughout.

This is a steep one pitch face route.  Start on Daleys Direct, but head up and left after about twenty feet.  A bolt protects a few 5.9 moves up and left to another bolt.  Move up and left (crux) to easier ground.

This short face route has a few interesting sections of face climbing. Start at a block which lies against the wall. Climb ten feet to its top and then traverse 15  20 feet left to the Orange Peel flake. From the top of this flake, clip a pair of bolts and do the crux face moves up and left to much easier ground. Scramble up and left a long ways to where you can set up a belay. Easy scrambling leads to the top.

Description

Protection

Routes in South Face - Right Side