Start off smooth in a small, tight corner; climb past edges and a few big holds onto a clean and shallow face. The climbing increasingly steepens until the crux at about the 3/4's mark, hold on while you figure out the moves and stay strong for the redpoint crux at a roof before the anchors.

Your fortune cookie reads:

Hang on tight and climb fast, quick thinking at the crux will get you through. Success comes when you keep your mind and eyes busy, don't become a prisoner of your own subconscious. Lucky numbers 5, 10, and D

Prisoner of My Own Subconscious

Sport Rappelling is Neither

Vinegar of Hostility

Size Matters Not

Bolt School

The Bearer of Light

Tipping the Vessel of Knowledge

Wine of Purity

Secret Knowledge Overkill

Neophyte

Crimpier than easier routes on this wall, but still has good clip stances.  The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolts where a committing move to a left hand side pull is required.

A little tricky to figure out where the good holds are but a fun line to the top of the cliff.

A cool jug traverse leads to the crux roof move. Figure out this powerful, but cryptic move to gain the head wall. The upper crux isn't nearly as hard, but the pump will be the main challenge.

Take care with the clip at the crux (3rd bolt).  There is a higher left hand hold that is friendlier than the right hand being used in the photo.

An excellent and forgiving, gear eating monster, this route is the perfect climb for the new trad leader (you also have to be psyched to haul your rack to

Notch Lake

).  Remote as the

Gunks

are to Utah, this climb is the closest you'll get to being at

The Trapps

. Horizontal breaks, big solid edges, and nice resting steps get the choosy, gear and sling picker, peacefully to the top.

Starting steep, this route follows a stacked ledge system through and over nice rests to a big ledge at a two bolt anchor. Follow the obvious crack and breaks.

Led ground up with gear, this traditional route ironically became two climbers first and successful attempts at hand drilling anchor bolts.

First and 2nd roof lip clips can both be made with complete confidence using a perfect hand jam in horizontal cracks under the roofs.

Could be trad protected, but would be a much more serious route.

Find the holds that will get you over the roof, then figure out how you are going to get to the next bolt, which is five or six feet left of you and up.  After that it's long reaches and high stepping to jugs and an "oh crap" move to finish.  Really great route!

Great for the crowd-evading, gear guru, SKO starts with a committing and delicate set of moves over a small bulge that lead to the crux at a roof, tiptoe left of this flap and follow the vertical fracture straight up to a tree. Short but sweet, this route has consistent, balancey moves up a thin face~!!

Secret knowledge not a must, crux spewing beta: overkill.

Climb up and over the roof through a really fun sequence of moves (no I won't give you beta, figure it out) :) Then it's reaches to jugs and a fight against the pump to the top.

Description

Location

Routes in The Getaway Wall