Thin steep vertical crack with helpful dents and face edges.  Walk off to climber's right.

Rock Shark

Pussy in Boots

When You're Not A Jet

Iron Maiden

When You're A Jet

Henny Penny

Sweet Ginger

Funny Money

Grain Death

When You're Erect

Start up right-slanting crack to gain a big ledge (more fun and more in-line than up the chimney at end of corridor as book says), then up a single crack that becomes twin cracks for the upper half.  Steep for the rating.

Climb a prominent dike on the wall also contains the routes The Art of Deception, and Swimming in a Sea of Deception to the left (though blocked by a boulder). .

This is a fun, unusual face with smooth, patinated rock and some pockets.  It's in a sunny location.

This route is located in the back of a narrow canyon on the overhanging southeast face of the Snickers formation.

The first pitch (11+) begins on a block at the top of a short chimney. Clip a bolt and climb into a dihedral. Technical stemming and gastons lead past three more bolts to a short discontinuous crack. Clip one more bolt and move right using a diagonal hand rail to a small platform. Moves on loose rock above the platform lead to a belay ledge.

The sustained and short second pitch (11+) continues past four bolts adjacent to a shallow, flared crack on grainy but solid rock.

This climb would be a classic if the rock was consistently solid.

A long reach out from under the bulge will get your fingers into the lip like crack.  Hand traverse and rand hook your way across to the vertical crack then up.  When the crack goes vertical you may need to scoop some dirt or sand out of crack.  I believe a loose block that lived in there is now gone.  Gets 3 stars for the coolness of the lip crack and location.

This route was named after the song in West Side Story.  Mr. Cilley always loved them showtunes!

Thin vertical crack up through two bushes.  Dirty.  Walk off to climber's right.

Begin near the right end of a large south-facing boulder adjacent to the south face of the Snickers formation. A reachy move on a slightly overhanging face gains the first of six bolts. Continue more or less straight up on positive hand holds to the fifth bolt. Move left (crux) on slopers and up past one more bolt to the top. Fun and well-protected climbing on grainy but solid rock.

This is a loose, ant-infested hand crack - not a recommended climb.

Begin on the gouged out north face of a boulder below Iron Maiden and climb in a left diagonal direction to a bolt. Traverse left (powerful moves) to the east face past two more bolts. Very technical and balancy moves lead up and right past one more bolt to a hand crack which goes to the top of the boulder.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Snickers - South Face