SDS on far left of grotto. Work your way up and right, following the lip to the same topout as Buckeroo Banzai. Some extremely rough slopers, but fun moves.

Heffalump

Buckeroo Banzai

Brawndo

The Carny

Gastonometer

Unnamed

Warmup Traverse

Armstrong

Start just left of ledge with opposed holds - go up through clean features using sidepulls to an obvious slot and topout above. An aesthetic line up a clean 30 degree overhung panel, with challenging compression moves that force slightly dynamic deadpoints. Climbing stays on you the whole way. One of the best boulder problems in the Jemez!

Squeezed line between Gastonometer and Armstrong. Sit start on underclings and make it up to slopers above - the gonad hold on Armstrong is off route. Another move to topout as for Gastonometer.

Start as for Gastonometer, head up and left up black streak. Long reaches between cool sidepulls. Easy topout, or just dropoff.

Sit start immediately right of ledge. Go up into the scoop, until you can make a move to the jug on the right. Juggy climbing exits up through notch. Pretty much every hold is a gaston.

Sit start face to the right of main wall. Hard opening moves lead to V0 jugs. Still dirty, needs traffic.   Stand is V0.

Stand start just left of corner in grotto on good holds. Rising traverse left, cruising on jugs to exit up through middle notch.

Sit start on two very obvious flat crimps underneath bulbous features on center-right of cave. Bust straight up, using a weird lava feature resembling a gonad. Either dropoff or topout above carefully up through notch (V0 jugs).

A really cool, steep (30-50° overhung) bouldering wall/cave with some very interesting holds—flat rails, juggy incuts, blobby slopers and underclings. Flat landing, many variations on lines. Recently cleaned to allow the right hand problems to be topped out. Some of the holds are very coarse-grained rhyolite, whereas others sport some nice water polish. Hopefully if this spot gets some more traffic, the rough holds will wear down a little and get more comfy with time.

 Sufficiently overhanging that you can climb here during a downpour. Also nicely shady, one of the coolest bouldering spots around during the summer (although gets some direct sun in the early evening in summer).

Description

Location

Routes in The Grotto