P1:Past a couple of bolts to a thin, balancey section (10+) to angled ledge then into chimney, which isn't as hard as it looks, past one bolt. Then committ to difficult smearing with nice finger crack (5.11a/b) and perfect rock/pro to a juggy finish. P2: 50 feet of short overhangs and some offwidth (5.10-). Beautiful climbing on P1 crux.

Bird of Prey

Into the Maelstrom

Knot Unknown

Lost and Found

Test of Faith

It's Super Body, YO!

Yang & Yin

Resurrection

First crack just right of the tombstone. Start on bouldery buldge, protect in horizontal if you wish. Next move on ledge is the pg13 part, the shorter you are the scarier it will be, stretching high to place a small cam on a balancy smear move. Continue through sugary section to better rock under and to right side of large roof and good hands to 3 bolt anchor

The first pitch (10d, 90ft) starts tight fingers then to fingertips toward a fun move past a small roof, then more tight fingers and tips to awkward hands then easier ground to anchors. P2 (5.12-, 105ft) is crux, starts tight fingers and tips on series of stretchy moves to ledge, then slightly overhanging tight fingers with poor stemming, past 2 bolts, then hang left to clip 2 more bolts over steep dihedral with seam, crimps, and friction for feet (yikes) to anchor. Rating is approximate on pitch as first ascending party was not worthy to finish the pitch so if you get it, please update. P3(5.10d, 80ft) nice short corner with good fingers past pin to bulges with good rests and fun climbing. Finishes on short but strenuous OW bit after a bolt.

200 feet downstream from the tomstone on your left is a gully with walls on both sides. Knot Unknown ascends an obvious crack up the right wall. Good rock and the steep section up high is easier than it looks. For an alternate start, try the left angling crack just a few feet to the right, still keeps it at same rating. Morning shade.

Step across water from rock, step up to place good, small cam then up and reach left to clip bolt. Pull past cruxy spot and continue up crack system past another bolt, more fingers and jugs on rock that is soft at times. Last 10 feet kind of dirty but protected by a bolt. Mantle onto big ledge then go right on ledge 10 feet to bolted anchor.

Alternative sporto first pitch for resurrection. Thin, balancy crimps and side pulls of a fairly continuous nature.

This route is to the left of Resurrection and uphill slightly. P1 5.10 Yang: 100' approx. Starts in great jam crack then widens for the rest of the way. Gear & 5 bolts. At the top after roof you will go up left onto large ledge to find anchor. Step around corner to left of anchor to see P2: 5.9 Yin: 90' approx. You can leave the big gear at this anchor (largest needed is #4). At top of P2 anchor, you can scramble above to top out. Two raps with 70m, though a 60m *probably* will work. Rap off P2 anchors to top of P1, then rap P1 directly down from P1 anchors.

Just downstream of Bird of Prey is a large, tombstone shaped monolith split by chimneys on both sides. Resurrection goes up the left side chimney for pitch 1, 5.9 4 bolts and gear to ledge then moved right to anchor. P2 up good rock past bolts and sparse gear over slightly overhanging thin holds/side pulls past a juggy roof then easier climbing to anchors, 12a. Long and strenuous.

Walls to 200-300 feet right at the water edge.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Middle Section