This is a long and challenging route. The crux is the first 2 bolts with no hands rests up higher. The first part is past vertical and strenuous getting to a rail past the first bolt then working a finger jam to a great lie back. The second (not as hard) crux is at bolts 6-7. The rest is easy going on huge flakes. Wondering what Drop the Clutch is referring to??

Drop the Clutch

Eye Opener

Gemini

Dag Nasty

Inky

The Vision

Tank Trap

Tanks For Nothing

Zorba the Greek

Barbie Twins

A well-protected, long route with wonderfully diverse movement.

Start up with tricky-but-not-difficult moves past the first bolt, and make a somewhat strenuous clip on the second bolt. Getting past the second bolt is the crux of the route, requiring careful body positioning, clever use of the holds that exist, and primarily, faith that it really can be done.

After the second bolt continue up through all sorts of movement, including delicate face moves, semi-burly liebacking, balancy sidepulling, etc.

After the sixth bolt start trending right, following the finger/hand crack. Surmount a series of narrow ledges on your way to the anchors at the top.

Climb up a dirty dihedral to the left of the bolt line and clip the first and second bolts. Step right onto the face using delicate feet and small handholds. Ease up and clip the third bolt, and start the delicate task of getting your feet high enough to surmount the crux.

Continue past two more bolts using larger holds (but still performing occasionally balancy moves) to the anchors.

A devious line with thin holds, balancy moves, and a strenuous, iron cross-like move.

Start up on the smooth face below the small roof, working the small crimps, sidepulls and footholds. The second clip is balancy and a bit thought-provoking. Find a way to get past the roof, rest a bit, and then wonder where the holds went.

A bit of desperate arete-pinching later, come to a couple of (relatively) larger holds and figure out the next bulge problem. Finally, clip the last bolt and head for the anchors.

A short but sweet route on bullet rock.

Stick clip first bolt.

This route climbs really quite well!  The start looks improbable at first, but after some inspection and brushing, it does link.  A bouldery dead vertical start leads to more positive holds with better friction as it becomes less steep.  This route would be very popular if in another location!

A wonderful stemming problem in an overhanging corner.

Start up through the dusty beginning using small feet and lieback handholds where the thin corner crack opens up enough to accept fingertips. Delicate stemming with a big move or two is required to the fourth bolt (getting to the fourth bolt is a reliefit feels like a long way from the third).

At this point the angle eases a bit and the holds get bigger. Continue up and stand atop a ledge on the left, then finish with the last eight or ten feet of face climbing to the anchors.

A corner route up the smooth face next to a rough face.

Start up the face, using the left face for holds and stemming as required. After the third bolt bear left to the fourth and the anchors in the corner.

This is a sustained and technical route- it looks like a real gem from the ground, and for a limestone slab I'd say it's semi-precious. It is tenuous and insecure for most of its 50 ft. There may only be 3 holds on the whole thing! The crux is at the 3rd bolt- climb a ways right of the bolt line to slap up the sloping ramp. The rock on this wall reminds me of that in the Merciless Onslaught/Something Wild area of Cannabis crag. This smooth and minimally textured rock offers surprisingly little for your feet. The routes weaves and shamefully flirts a little too close  with the corner to the left in the middle section. It also can feel like it is coated in a fine dust/ lichen (despite brushing) that makes friction troublesome. Despite all the above talk bemoaning it's lack of perfection, this route will truly make you proud if you send. It requires a lot of focus for only 50 ft of climbing! Hard and sustained for 12c.

Start up a balancy, flaring chimney through three bolts, followed by a somewhat tricky move to exit the chimney onto the face.

Continue through a few delicate moves to the fourth bolt, then more secure climbing to the anchors.

A fun, relatively unique limestone sport route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Visionary Wall