This is an inferior cousin to

Money

. It is easier higher up. A few bolts could have been placed better.

Child of a Lesser Line

Money

Flarey, Cracky Thingy

Shady Business

Bad Vibes

Beginner Route

Hardly Certain

Snack Size

Right 5.6

I would advise others not to climb this route. A number of the holds are huge, guillotine-like flakes that scared the crap out of me. Even though the initial climbing was easy, I stickclipped the first by and had my belayer stand well to the side. My belayer had to continue to shift position to stay out of the potential drop zone. The crux is not one you want to fall on due to bolt placement. Also, the rock quality is poorer than normal on this cliff.

The climb consists of moderate climbing through B3 with a 5.9ish move to clip B4. Then there is a pretty intriguing sequence to get to B5. Be careful as a fall in the crux will result in a pendulum and possibly the loss of some skin on the rock bulge near B4. The crux requires nailing a dyno to a hollow sidepull at B5 - unnerving. After that, it backs off to the anchors.

If you climb this and care about your belayer, make sure they are never below you. If one of the many large hollow holds rips, they will appreciate not being in the fall line.

I don't know the FA or the route name. I just wanted to propose something and warn folks.

Money is a great route and one of the best in this little area. Easy climbing gets you 1/3 of the way up. Get past the technical crux move, and then try to hang on to the shuts.

This crack(ish) system protects fairly well and is an ok climb with solid rests every few moves.

Clip the first bolt, then get through the crux to the second clip from a possibly tricky stance, then move on to a quick rest before hanging on till the top with generally positive holds.

This is a good beginner route or kid route.

A hard start that is possibly a touch contrived takes you to some great, steep climbing on fun holds to a steep second crux at the anchors.

Snack Size is short and sweet. It has pumpy climbing to a slab. Clip 3 bolts with the crux possibly clipping the second bolt. Then move up on increasingly positive holds placing finger-sized gear in a horizontal before moving onto the runout slab. There is another finger-sized piece of geat to be had (nut works well) left of the anchors to protect the last move or two before clipping the anchors.

Note - blowing any of the first 3 clips puts you at risk of groundfall. The third bolt has a good clipping stance, but the second bolt does not. If you aren't feeling it, bring a stickclip.

Climb up a line of weakness on very positive holds to a high first bolt. Head up and left, then move back right a bit on good holds through the crux at bolt 4. Then cruise to the finish above the overhanging lip.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Long Cliff