A short, fun route. Easy standing first clip. Start on some generous incut holds, moving left, making the second clip and up to the feature (a little cave with a large tooth that looks like the silhouette of a bat). Pull up on a solid match on the 'tooth' and reach for a juggy side pocket to the left for the clip. High feet will get you a decent hold on the right and higher feet will get you up to the a great ledge on the left - definitely the crux. Pull up to a short scramble for another clip and up to the finish at the anchors.

Koskenkorva Martini

Bottoms Up

Mak Daddy

Delirium Tremens

B-52

Day Drunk

The Jones

Liquid Diet

Comfortably Numb

Anabuse

Home Brew

Happy Hour

Cold Turkey

Ativan

Blue Agave

Empty Glass

Bourbon Street

This obscure climb features a hard fingery crux that might feel quite hard for 12a if you're not use to big pulls off mono's. 

  Start up on easier ground with big moves between big holds for the first three bolts.  After clipping the 4th bolt (nice to pre-hang this), make a long move off a sharp two finger pocket / sidepull to a deep left hand mono.  Lock this off low and make a big move up to decent holds at the lip.  Pull over the lip with bad footholds and reach the anchor.

Another route with a hard start and an easy low angle finish.  Make some fun moves up to the first bolt, here pull the crux with a few big moves.  Easier climbing leads up with huge jugs to rest on, before pulling a tricky bulge to easier climbing to the anchors.

Several moves of easy climbing lead into a 3-move crux around the second bolt, then a no hands rest and 5.11 climbing to the anchors.  The third move of the boulder problem crux is quite tough due to poor footholds.  The left handholds are surprisingly good.

Devious from the ground, this one wastes no time in getting started.  Use some crimps to get established to a nice hold.  Make a large move to get established on an undercling.  Continue up pull the final bulge and head up on easier ground.

Head up for the high first bolt on mostly easy ground but with one hard move before the first bolt.  Guide mentions placing a #5 nut before the first bolt, or it can be easily pre-clipped by first climbing Home Brew.  After clipping the first bolt, pull the cool bouldery crux.  Once you hit the 2nd bolt clipping jug the difficulty eases to the anchors.

Start in a mono pocket right hand, make some fun moves to the start of the crux, bolts 2-4, pull a small bulge at bolt 5 and finish on the same anchors as Bottoms Up.

Clip the first bolt, grab the jug, and fire the powerful, slightly reachy crux.  Clip the second bolt, drift right and dance your way through fun, engaging moves and a few good rests up to the anchors.

Entertaining climbing on cool holds leads to some tricky moves and a difficult second clip.  Move into and undercling and make the crux moves leftwards into good holds.  A cool deadpoint between hueco jugs leads to the anchors.

After the bouldery start (crux) and a funky mantle move, the climbing eases for about 15-20 feet (as do the bolts!). Second crux at the headwall above the lower-angled stuff. When you come upon two bolts that are right next to each other (horizontally), go STRAIGHT up, not to the right! (makes it a little harder and scarier).

Fun climb, a few crimpy moves at the crux (after the second bolt).

New route starting between Empty Glass and B-52.  Climb easy ground up to the second bolt, then make some cool moves utilizing juggy sidepulls up to the anchors.  Graded 10d in Falcon guide, but felt quite a bit easier.

Pull off the ground and stretch high to clip the first bolt, now make the crux moves (and incredibly hard for the grade) with a bad left hand in a tweaky pocket inside the large hueco, and a cross through to a sidepull.  From here easier ground is encountered on large holds up past a bulge and a leftwards traverse to the anchors.

Head up on mainly good holds to a few tricky moves.  Some hidden holds appear just when needed, making this easier than it seems.  Once the overhang is over, head up easier ground to the anchors. 

  Graded as 10d/11a.

Nice backbone arete on the left (south) end of the wall. Start just left of Anabuse, climb "arete" style with side pulls and heel hooks to keep you on the wall. A technical crux comes at the top after clipping the final bolt, pull the roof and find the anchors at the summit.

Scramble up left onto a large boulder and clip the first bolt. It looks committing getting to the second bolt but once you get started it's not that bad. Continue up and right through some great lie-backs and jugs.

If you like being 25 feet of the deck before you are protected, climb this one! May be able to get some pro in before the first bolt. Didn't bring any though!

This wall has several quality routes from 5.9-5.12b on solid rock. This is a nice place to frequent in the winter, since the sun remains here until around 2:00 PM.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Alcohol Wall