Stemtastic

Stretch

Thinlistic

Drumpf

Never Too Old to Send

Chim Chim Arete

Crux is in the beginning for about 3 bolts

Intelligent climbers will avoid this one yet some folks might give it a try without fully thinking through the potential consequences. If you have tiny hands, this will feel a bit more difficult.

 I'm adding this just for posterity's sake. Mark and I climbed this wide crack/dihedral/chimney thing in 2008 on gear, simul-rapping off the formation with one of us on each side of the rock. It was a quick, fun experience but with the bolted route Stemtastic now just left of the crack, I wouldn't expect any repeats of this gear climb.

 I later learned from a long-time Los Alamos climber that Ken Ewing and the LA Mountaineers climbed on this rock, and nearby Battleship Rock, in the 1950s so I'm sure this crack had been climbed prior to Mark and I climbing it in 2008.

 Climb featured rock up the dihedral using the grungy crack in the back for gear. The angle eases off up high.

The crux is after the first bolt. HIGH first clip, bring a long stick clip to stick clip the first bolt. If you are going to top rope extend the anchor or you will trash your rope. Once on top and at the anchor I suggest you rappel or take care lowering off.

The crux is at the top of the route where the features get smaller and disappear

Shady in the morning until about 12:00 for the belayer. It is right off the road--just a few steps from the UEF parking lot.    Because of the slabby nature of the wall, the rock is as good as most Jemez rhyolite but has a good bit of lichen on it. It should clean up with traffic, though.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Rabbit Rock