Farley's

ugly, left-facing cousin, East Corner will more fully test your liebacking skills or it can more easily be climbed as a fist crack if you have your skills honed. If not, this is a great introduction to a skill (fists) you will definitely need if you wish to progress to any degree in Traditional climbing. Keep it together for the near vertical crux before gaining a moderate trough and then a bolt before running it out a bit on easy terrain to chain anchors. There is some loose rock in the trough past the crux, so proceed cautiously. Judicious slinging on the second half of the climb should diminish rope drag.

East Corner

The Sound of Perseverance

Fly Trap

Make That Move Right Now Baby

Annabelladonna

Dog Fight

Fingerlock

Wintergreen

Mad Dog

Tippie Toes

Dirty Dog

A dime sized edgeing slab.

Start on Make that Move Now Baby and instead of going over the roof after the third bolt, traverse out right around it. Clip the bolt (use double runner) and keep traversing right on a small ledge to a good stance and another bolt. The route continues strait up form here. Just after the last bolt is the crux. Throw for the arete up as high as possible then climb up it to the anchors. This route was put in on lead with all bolts drilled by hand.

A direct start has been worked for this route but still remains elusive to all who have tried. All but about 3ft has been climbed at a grade approaching 5.13 slab. It is an open project... Good Luck!

This is the wide but short offwidth/lieback route on the Northeast side of the Sugarbun. Even though this route has been lead with gear it's probably a better option if leading to do without as the crack is too wide and protection too sparse to protect with any degree of safety. The crux is short, leading to easier climbing up the arête above.

Step off a rock on to thin face with bolts, pull past a roof and follow an arete to the top.

A natural flowing thin face and lieback route following a faint crack that begs to be climbed. Thin delicate face climbing quickly changes up as you reach the thin crack and becomes a series of thin but very powerful lieback moves through the crux.

A short and thin face route past three bolts and finally merging with a crack (Mad Dog) and following it to the top.

On the west side of Sugarbun, climb the splitter finger crack with the oak growing next to it. Climb stemming the tree until you can gain purchase on the crack for the 5.10b variation or climb the crack directly staying off the tree for the direct way that feels more like 5.11.

A tried and true first 5.10 lead for many.

Crux is before and just past the high first bolt that requires a few 5.10+ face moves. The rest of the route is sustained; most hand features are small, side-pull crimps and feet are mostly smears on small, slopey bulges on low angle face.

Move past 3 bolts, then be careful when doing final tricky moves (with your feet 3-4 feet above last bolt). Last 10+ feet after that are runout, but on easy and low angle, 5.7 terrain.

Start up Fly Trap and traverse out right following the thin fingercrack.

Excruciatingly painful thin edging testpiece with a difficult sequence of moves to unlock nearly the whole way makes this one a not often repeated goal reserved only for the truly determined.

I did this a few times in the 70s when it only had two 1/4" bolts and was mossy as hell. Scared the shit outta me then.

It has been nicely cleaned up and with 3 big bolts is real nice now.  Maybe led out for some folks but a lot of fun smearing and good places to hang out and suss out the moves before going for it.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sugarbun