A single pitch line with a few bolts and natural pieces of protection.

Single Pitch Bolt and Pro Route

Northeast Ridge

South Face

Orange Chimney

Cerro K'Narlé

Great Googley Boogley

Bighorn

Classic to the right of "Cerro K'Narlé" and the diagonaling "Orange Chimney" (5.9) route.

The East Ridge can be climbed from the saddle, which is easily accessed from the backside. But the entire East Ridge can be traversed, starting from the unofficial campground at the curve on US 120 along Warren Creek. This second way is a bit loose, but still only 5.7.

It is also possible to continue on past the summit of the Sphinx and down into the saddle on the backside of the formation, and then on up the orange rock ridge to the West - Northwest. Ian Ferguson has done this to the high point of that ridge.

Climb the obvious orange chimney on the right (west) end of the south face of The Sphinx. Said to be "crumbly".

Climbs the south-east face of The Sphinx formation through some nice corners cracks and overhangs. "Nice Sierra granite", says Sibylle Hechtel in an old summit registry entry. The route starts with a 3rd class scramble up and right to the base of the Orange Chimney where the real climbing begins. P1 Cross over Orange Chimney, climb 5.10a face, and climb up under arch. P2 45' classic fist crack to horizontal break. P3 Climb face to upper corner. P4 The last pitch goes through a roof at 5.9 and finishes on the Sphinx summit.

Pitch 1 starts in an alcove with plenty of friable rock (watch your head). Do a series of moves up to a traversing roof then under it with just enough feet to keep it sane. Pitch 2 goes up and around some stacked blocks, then on to a traversing horizontal crack, with no feet really, but once again just enough to get you by the exposed piece, then more jamming up steep corners to the next belay ledge, which isn't much more than the top of a block just big enough for your feet. Pitch 3 starts out steep again, finds a roof, traverses out and left, with just enough footholds to make it possible. Getting  past a large loose block to the belay is a tremendous relief. The 4th pitch (5.7) is low angle and takes you up to the summit. Sort of a let down considering the first three pitches had absolutely wonderful 5.10 moves.

Note: Some loose rock. Good climbing.

Climbs cracks and corners to the right of Great Googley Boogley, finishing with a crack splitting the upper headwall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Sphinx