Climb up some easy rock to clip the first bolt.  Pass the bolt on the left and make a tricky thin move to gain a left facing flake.  Continue up the flake to large jugs in under the overhang.  Clip the bolt and pull over the roof to gain a great hold on the left (crux).  Continue up and right over a very moderate face on good holds to reach the shuts.  This is a great route for someone breaking into the 5.12 grade, more like 5.11d.  Bolts are very well placed.

Morning Dew

Surge Complex

Jug Rash

A Wild Hair

Pleasure and Pain

Constant Velocity

Ritz Cracker

New Tricks for the Old Dog

Jacuzzi Bop

Bill and Ken's Excellent Adventure

The Weight

Goofer's Retreat

Crescenta

Grand Space

C-Section

Beech, Beeech, Beeeech!

Fire and Waste

Nervous Bachelor

A bad ass climb on solid, beautiful rock with good gear. Jug Rash is essentially a bouldery sport climb on gear. If this route were bolted, it would see constant traffic. Pat truly found an overlooked gem with this one!

Start on a pointed block and climb to a stance on the arete under the right side of the roof. Place some gear, move up, then left with an attentive belay and be ready to fight in a great cam (.4).  A big deadpoint sets you up for a good stance and gear leading into an awesome boulder problem.  Powerful moves punctuated with good stances to protect follow.  Head to the crack / flake then up left to the bolted anchor. This climb is outstanding.

Climb the easy layback moves to start following the crack to reach a bulge.  Pull through the bulge, thin hands with occasional jugs or hand jams.  Continue up to reach a large horizontal below a bulging overhang.  Place a good piece and fire up over the bulge, heading left (crux).  Once you reach a stance, try to find some gear and continue left and then up the face.  Gear is somewhat sparce near the top and holds can be a bit dirty and less positive that you would expect.  Cool route, the 5.11a rating is more of an average rating, stout!

Climb a wide crack for 10 ft. onto a ledge and head into the corner to climb 60 feet up a wide crack to a small tree ledge.

Intricate face trad.  Follows some incipient cracks and seams up to to a shallow, right-leaning dihedral.  Climb over the dihedral to the left, gear gets sparser and the moves get harder.  Two fixed pitons protect the final twenty feet or so to the anchors.

Start by climbing up a crack system on the left and after about 10 feet traverse right to gain a stance on a grassy ledge.  From here, head up and left to begin climbing the crack in the dihedral.  The start of this section has great feet, but they get much smaller as you stem your way up, aiming for a hand jam (crux).  Once you reach the hand jam, you can climb straight up a bit of an offwidth section or step right to a right facing corner and head directly up toward the anchors.

This route begins on an orange left-facing flake.  At the end of the flake, step left to a ledge.  Maintain momentum through steep horizontals to the top.

One of the coolest easy splitter cracks in the NRG. Looks like someone just grabbed the rock and pulled it apart. Starts in a hand/fat hand crack and goes up a slabby to vertical face with the crack narrowing to fingers at the top. From here, you can either build an anchor on the ledge with horizontals above the big Hueco and bring up your second, or you can place a piece, sling it long and cruise the short but beautiful dihedral to the top.

This is a generously bolted line that runs up gently overhanging rock.  Thin moves to start, the crux is near or just after the first bolt, depending on how tall you are so stick-clipping the first is prudent if this is your limit.  The movement is good, and the difficulty eases up quite a bit a little over halfway up, as the route becomes vertical, then less than vertical toward the anchors. Crimp, stem, reach, drop your knees and twist your hips to get through this one.

This route would be much more popular if the start was more obvious.  Don't be deterred, the upper portion is sweet!!  Start by climbing the low angle featured face trending up and right to gain a ledge about 20 Ft. below an overhang.  Climb up the face passing 2 bolts to reach the overhang(crux).  Pass the overhang on the left side and continue to the top.  The moves at the crux are a bit reachy but the holds are really good.

Worth doing for some good variety! Start off the boulder and pass one bolt doing a tough opening move. Easier climbing to a ledge which leads to fun flake and a second bolt before pulling onto another ledge. Move off the ledge getting a good piece of gear or two, and get ready for the run to the top through 2 more bolts. Finish on a dinner table sized ledge with a great view of the gorge.

This is a very worthy mixed line, though it could use a rebolting job.  Start up a lichened, smooth face coming in from the right (uphill) with a few heady moves before the first bolt.  There are big moves and weird sequences for the first three bolts. At a pretty good stance, you get some gear in, then bust up a bulge through some cool huecos, more gear, and one more bolt into a REALLY cool crux sequence.  At the top, you move right into a shallow dihedral.

Climb the first part of Ritz Cracker but move left at the first ledge and follow a wide hands crack to a ledge(optional belay). From the ledge head up and left following the wide crack to the point where it meets an overhang. Pull the easy but fun move through the overhangs to the top. Do it in 1 pitch, you'll be glad you did. Really fun. better than Ritz Cracker in my opinion.

Climb the left facing corner to the roof.  Traverse left under the roof to a stance.  Head straight up into a left facing corner to the top.   Use some long slings on the traverse to avoid drag.  The upper portion is not hard, but incredibly fun!  Do this route, it's awesome!

If the quality of climbing that exists on the first 30 feet continued for the entire route, this would be classic!  Unfortunately the upper portion is a bit crumbly and dirty.  This route would benefit greatly from more traffic.  Climb up the thin bouldery start making use of the small but positive holds to reach a large ledge (crux).  Traverse left to gain access to a dihedral in white rock.  Follow for 15 ft and pull a small overhang and continue up a finger crack in a dihedral to reach the large roof.  Traverse out left to the lip of the roof and pull through a v-shaped slot.  Follow the crack systems over a lichen covered face to the top.  Beware of rope drag as you pull the large roof near the end.  Extend slings on the lower portion of the route.

The route is seldom traveled and a little hard to find, it has a stout crux and will likely be left barren of chalk to follow. The crux is between the third and forth bolts, although if you choose the wrong path after this crux will feel casual...

Climb a wide hand crack to a ledge with webbing slotted through the rock. Continue up into a chimney.

A direct start to Crescenta.  An overhanging start leads to face climbing past horizontal ledges.  This route meets up with Crescenta at the stance after the traverse.  This can be toproped from the anchors of Crescenta.

This is a great route that is mostly bolted, although a few cams are definitely needed. Step off the boulder into reachy moves right out of the gate, angling your way up and left toward a faint bolted dihedral over a small roof.  Plenty of cruxy moves take you up to a great ledge rest, and then yet another move left to another roof with more hard moves..  End on great featured white rock and step right to the shared anchors of Bill and Ted's Excellent Adventure (11b) just to the right.

Awesome movement and exposure!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 8) Ritz Cracker Area