This route was established by climbers who placed the bolts on aid, and who did not free it.  The pitch was later free climbed and the bolts in the upper half re-arranged so they followed the line and could be clipped on lead, without the crux being clipping the bolts.

Start by scambling up the right side of the pillar.  Step back left and start clipping bolts.  The bolts on the lower half were left as placed by the original party.  Good climbing on good knobs characterizes the first half of the pitch.  At about the halfway point the knobs thin down and start to peter out.  Do somewhat thinner and enjoyable climbing past a few bolts.  A final sequence to obtain the flake coming in from the right requires a little thought.

Assume the Position

Lowest Common Denominator

Crystal Voyage

Shark Bait

Schrodinger's Cat

Flotsam

Keelhauled

Riptide

Message In a Bottle

Perhaps the classic route on the wall.  Great knob climbing.

Pitch 1: Start by doing the first pitch of Message In a Bottle.  Instead of moving left to the Message In a Bottle flake set up a funky gear belay on the broken ledges.

Pitch 2: From the right side of the ledges step up to the small roof like feature.  Clip the bolt, pull over, and follow great knob climbing to a giant knob (can be slung.)  From the large knob climb up and right past a couple of bolts, staight up past a thin stance bolt, then back slightly left.  Make a couple of moderately runout moves on small knobs, then climb up the funky knobby runnel to the two bolt anchor.  Excellent 11b pitch.

Climb the flake just right of the Assume the Position pillar.  From the flake climb over a couple of overlaps.  Turn the primary overlap via face moves on the left and then angle back up right to the base of the obvious thinning flake that eventually curves over horizonatlly left.  Tricky face climbing under the arch yields the crux.  Belay/lower from the Assume the Position anchor.

Start immediately behind a small tree.  The base of the wall is undercut so the first order of business is getting established on the face.  Proceed past bolts until reaching the lefwards diagonaling seam.  The optional cam may be placed here to protect moves to the next bolt.  Move up and right out onto the clean upper face.  Good climbing takes one past the last bolt to the anchor.

The first line on the wall, and still the longest.  Three good pitches of varied face climbing.

Pitch 1: Scramble up the left leaning seam to start.  Follow bolts up the steepening slab, tending left.  Finally, proceed straight up toward the left tip of the roof to a two bolt hanging station.  Great 11b pitch, worth doing by itself.

Pitch 2: Step left a few feet, go past a couple of bolts, back right a little, then up and curve right following the line of small knobs and edges that go through the steep section.  End at a two bolt stance.  This is a realtively short pitch.  12a.

Pitch 3: Move left a few feet on easy climbing then follow the line of bolts up the clean slab.  Starting at the about the third bolt the climbing is reasonably continuous on small holds and smears for the remainder of the pitch, with a distinct crux near the top.  12a.

For value added the first two pitches can be combined into a single pitch.  Doing this might add a letter to the overall grade, who knows.

This route turns the center of the long upwards left curving flake that forms a small roof.  Start on the broken ledgy stuff by the corner on the right side.

Pitch 1: Move out left to start, then follow bolts up and left.  As one approaches the roof move back right.  Clip a bolt over the roof, then pull over on small knobs (crux.)  Above, climb the knobby face up and a little right.  End at the two bolt anchor.  11d.

Pitch 2:  Tend up and left to start.  Climb past 4 bolts, and end with an easy run to the last station.  This pitch is a little on the sporty side in a few places.  11d.

Two good pitches of small knobs and smearing, with some fun moves turning the two small roofs on pitch one.

Pitch 1:  Start on the top of the small ledges next to the corner.  A sporty move or two gets one to the first bolt.  Angle slightly left then straight up past bolts on small hold edging/smearing as the wall slowly steepens.  A tricky sequence brings one to the roof.  Step around right and go through the double tier flakes/roofs, then up the knobby face to the belay atop the flake.  12a.

Pitch 2: Up the knobby face just left of the belay to a fairly high first bolt.  Proceed more or less straight up to the crux at the 5th bolt.  Tend left a little then straight up.  From the 6th bolt it is possible to move up and a little right to clip the last bolt on Message In a Bottle, otherwise, stay a little left and run for the belay.  6 or 7 bolts, depending on the option taken at the end.  Good pitch of knob and micro-knob climbing.  12a.

Thin moves on the lower, steeper section of the wall present the primary problem.  A great little knob is most helpful.

The first three bolts are tightly spaced as that is the only option for staying off the ground while doing the crux.  Marginally sporty getting to the fourth.

From the fifth bolt move up and right, then straight up past three more bolts to the anchor.  The rock in this sction of the face is superb.

The first bolt is a little hard to clip.  There used to be a good hand edge by it, which made drilling the bolt no harder than clipping it now that the hold has mostly broken off.

A fun exercise in knobs, edging, and smearing.  A little wandering on pitch two, but still quite good.

Pitch 1:  Do the obvious thin crack that slowly opens to hands.  At the broken ledge step left and follow the flake to the bolt anchor at it's top.  The crack on this pitch tends to occasionally require cleaning.  5.9.

Pitch 2:  Easy knob climbing thins down as the climbing moves a little right.  From the last really good knobs curve back left on ever decreasing knobs.  Thin moves then lead straight up and eventually back left.  The climbing gets a little more run in this area.  From the last bolt do a longish easy runout to the anchor - on a great fin like knob feature.  12a.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Beach, Right Side